Address: 6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2.
Tel: 00 353 1 670 9000.
E-mail: reservations@theclarence.ie
Web address: www.theclarence.ie

First impressions Subtle, classic, elegant: high ceilings and oak wainscoating. A spiritual retreat after the excesses of Temple Bar.

What are the rooms like? Light, airy and art-directed. TV, video, a stereo better than the one you have at home, CDs (Ella Fitzgerald), mini-bar (complete with eyemask), purple slippers and deep-pile bath robes. Potted orchid and candles behind stained-glass screens for romantics.

The bed test Enormous oak number sporting crisp Irish linen.

The bathroom test All the classic style ingredients: white tiles, chrome fittings, oak trimmings. Pots of free lotions.

The restaurant The Tea Room serves heavenly meals - dinner around I£90 for two with wine - in a divine setting. Biblically-proportioned windows, central pews, altar of a bar. Don't miss the breakfast.

The lounge U2's Bono and The Edge liked the bar so much, they bought the hotel and restored it. The Octagon Bar and Back Bar draw in a cool crowd and rubber-neckers hoping for a glimpse of rocking guests. Afternoon tea is taken in The Study.

What is there to see within walking distance? The river Liffey on one side, Temple Bar's hen and stag runs on the other.

What is there to see within a 10-minute drive? Make it a 30-minute local train ride, and you have the quaint fishing village of Howth to the north and Killiney to the south.

How much a night? Doubles start from I£195.

Would you go back? To be sure.