No pain, no gain could be the Nepalese national motto. Especially in the Himalayas. At roughly 4,000m above sea-level you're confronted by a glorious trinity of mountain, valley and brilliant blue sky. It's enough to take your breath away. But the exertion of getting there has probably done that already. Of course, the pay-off is striking.
It's easy to forget the views that persuade thousands of travellers to test their limbs and resolve each year are commonplace to the inhabitants of the mountain kingdom. As you trek through the hills, you constantly encounter nonplussed locals. This extraordinary locale has provided the inspiration for a new film reminiscent in scale and content of a John Ford western. Set in the Dolpo region of the north-western Himalayas, Himalaya is the tale of an epic journey from a village deep in the Nepalese Himalayas down to the lush valleys. The yak caravan undertakes this hazardous journey in order to swap their salt reserves for precious grain. It's a relentless trek blessed, literally, by the gods.
The Dolpo region is one of the most isolated and highest areas of the Himalayas, fiercely protected by natural barriers, almost a hidden country. If you want to experience the trekking life without that kind of struggle, best head towards more hospitable hills.
The most popular trek for keen walkers is the Annapurna circuit across the north Himalayan range, which takes three weeks to cross, including a 5,416m pass. For a gentler introduction, I embarked on the Jomson trek, basically the last third of Annapurna circuit. Tourism accounts for 16 per cent of Nepal's GDP, but up in the hills it's often the main source of income. The region is traditionally populated with tenant and subsistence farmers. Post-war mountaineers spoke of the area's beauty and since the Sixties it has become a hot destination for adventurous sun seekers.
Trekking is a Nepalese way of life; there are few reliable roads at altitude so you will see plenty of villagers along the way. Modern technology has left the region largely alone. The electricity supply is solar powered. The main signs of Western influence are the number of Nepalese men clad in brands such as Nike, Reebok and Adidas. Most impressive are the Herculean feats of those carrying heavy loads, ranging from man-sized bundles to 12ft slabs of building timber. I had been warned that the monsoon period, from June to September, brings slippery slopes and wet socks. So I came prepared, over-prepared. I'd bought my boots and jacket in Kathmandu for a third of the British price. From there I flew to the staging town of Pokhara, home to Nepal's equivalent of the hippie trail. Restaurants have names such as Chill Out and Ganga and the nightlife is vibrant. But I stepped out of the light aircraft into blazing sunshine.
'It's just like the desert,' says my personal guide Roshan. Born in neighbouring Bhutan, Roshan went to school in Kathmandu and stayed. During the off-season he has an enforced four-month break without pay so looks forward to October. It obviously hasn't rained here for some time and, according to Roshan, it seldom does. Ironically, flying to Jomson from Pokhara I had seen rows of green, fertile hills covered in trees, while the tiers of paddy fields made much of the landscape look strangely wrinkled.
From a clear day on the higher levels of the Jomson trail you can see Everest. The trail, which from October will be teeming, was quiet. During the trip I saw few other travellers. When the plane arrived, porters and guides lined up to greet their prospective employers. The runway marks the end of the long street which is the village's sole thoroughfare. Apart from the activity around the runway, Jomson (2,713m) looked like a Mexican border town; gift shops and teahouses - essentially backpacking hostels - lined the rugged road. Mountain people are stoic and philosophical. When my 30-minute flight was delayed by mist over Jomson for two and a half hours, there were no complaints in the departure lounge. As we waited on the runway to board the return flight, Roshan calmly told me that Nepalese light aircraft have an unenviable safety record. Indeed he fortuitously missed a plane last year, which was later involved in a fatal crash.
The trekking day begins around 6am and ends around 4pm. We arrived at lunch time, too late to do a proper day's walking. Roshan hired a porter and I watched guiltily as he hoisted my holdall on to his shoulder. We headed towards Marpha, a tiny village famous for apples. The views were breathtaking from the valley floor; there was a harsh beauty to the arid landscape beneath the impressive cloudless sky. Our first journey was punctuated by my camera stops.
I realised later that the two-hour trek to Marpha has been a relative stroll, consisting of a few short descents and ascents, but essentially flat. The main attraction at Marpha (2,665m) is the apple brandy distillery. It's a favourite destination for thirsty trekkers who are allowed to taste the product during guided tours. This is hard stuff, 75 per cent proof, and it tastes like it should be on a paintbrush rather than my tongue. Still, I bought a couple of bottles for 50 rupees each (about 50p). Emboldened by the earlier walk, I persuaded Roshan to lead me up the hill to large white-and-brown dyed rock surrounded by multi-coloured flags. It is the sign that Buddhists live here. It was a short, arduous trek for a humble beginner. Roshan strode ahead and I scrambled up in his wake. At the top I breathlessly flopped on to a large rock. He looked perturbed. This did not bode well for the next few days.
The Nepalese rise early. A mouthful of breakfast at six; a large lunch around 10; an evening meal around six. In the capital Kathmandu, the handful of bars shut at 10pm. This took some getting used to. But the food on the trail did not. It is indicative of how the trekking experience has been overly sensitive towards Western tastes. Even the humblest backpacker hotel boasts a selection of Chinese, American, Indian, Mexican and Italian dishes.The local lentil and rice staple, dal bhat tarakari, is notoriously hard to find. Apple pie, however, is in abundance.
Today we headed back towards Jomson on the way to Kagbani (2,810m). The monsoon rains had swollen the river Kagbani to cover the valley floor, so we had to wade across in bare feet. The highlight at the sturdy village of Kagbani was the monastery. It is more than 500 years old and boasts the customary cylindrical prayer bell which looked like a giant boiler. A guided tour costs 100 rupees, which includes a rooftop visit and a magnificent 360-degree view of the surrounding valley.
Although Nepal is an overwhelmingly Hindu country, the mountain people are mostly Buddhist. Every village contains a temple, monastery or religious statue. It's tempting to find religious significance even in the mundane. The following day on the way to Muktinath (3,710m), the next, steep stage of the trail, I was taken by a curious circular arrangement of stones. The letter H appeared to have been spelt out in the middle. 'What's that?' I asked. 'It's for the helicopter landing,' Roshan said drily.
At the end of my trekking stint, I was blister-free and only slightly stiff. Still, it was a relief to return to the comforts of my hotel room at Kathmandu's Royal Singi Hotel. Kathmandu is a bustling city whose 500,000 residents make their presence felt. A drive around the city reveals unsettling levels of poverty and sanitation. Most travellers end up sooner or later in Thamel, a sprawling bazaar of narrow streets crammed with shops. While shopping, bargaining is obligatory. Head to the Durbar Square for a look at the temples and palaces.
Despite the undoubted allure of Kathmandu, the charm of Nepal lies in the hills. The scenery in the Himalayas, which include eight of the world's 10 highest mountains, is probably unrivalled anywhere. But perhaps the real selling point is the chance to embark on a spiritual break. This must be what they call the high life.
Fact file
Akin Ojumu's itinerary was specially created by Exodus (020 8772 3821) but much of the route is covered in a 24-day 'Annapurna Circuit' tour that costs from £1,298. A 17-day tour of Jomson and the Kau Gandaki costs from £1,198. Exodus has 20 itineraries to Nepal with prices from £795. See www.exodus.co.uk
