Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler once invited me to lunch at the Criterion, Marco Pierre White's opulent restaurant in Piccadilly, a surprising choice for a writer who has spawned a generation of guidebooks noted for their frugality.
This new venture from the Lonely Planet team provides an explanation. The Criterion is highlighted as one of the best restaurants in central London for its 'decadent decor and sumptuous sustenance' while the detailed listing concludes that the experience is 'sensibly priced'. The roast tuna (£14.95) was good too.
This is a well-edited review of more than 350 restaurants, divided into districts from Wimbledon to Crouch End. The indexing - by area and cuisine as well as name - is good as are the maps. There are useful panels on riverside pubs, places to enjoy high tea or a good breakfast. The judgments are sound and punches aren't pulled. Mezzo is 'uneven', Orso is 'resting on its rocula' and the service at Chez Nico is 'over-intrusive' - just don't argue. As you would expect from Lonely Planet, the selection is a celebration of the diversity of cuisines available in London.