Address: Market Place, Pickering, Ryedale, North Yorkshire Y018 7AA.

Tel: 01751 472288.

Web address: www.white-swan.co.uk

First impressions: A 16th-century former cottage and coaching inn that was once used by smugglers moving salt from Whitby via Saltersgate to York. Voted Hotel of the Year 2000 by the Yorkshire Tourist Board, it has only 12 bedrooms, so the atmosphere is intimate and relaxed.

What are the rooms like? They are all individually designed, some are more spacious than others, and most offer stunning views of Pickering and the surrounding countryside. Our room was huge with plenty of space for a lively 18-month-old toddler to play in. Surprisingly quiet, despite being in the centre of Pickering. The television was cleverly concealed in a little cupboard.

The bed test: An antique bed that was just right - not too hard or soft - for a good night's sleep. The travel cot was comfortable, too.

The bathroom test: Compact but with shower and large bath. A champagne bucket doubles as a waste bin.

The restaurant: Gourmet menu served in comfortable surroundings, and with a vast selection of wines. The chocolate cake was the most delicious I have ever tasted.

The lounge: Comfortable sofas and an open fire. Plenty of reading material.

What is there to see within walking distance? Pickering Castle is just around the corner. As is the North Yorks Moors railway.

What is there to see within a 20-minute drive? The North Yorkshire Moors; Goathland, where the TV series Heartbeat is filmed; and Whitby, with its Gothic ruined abbey and plethora of fish and chip shops, is only 19 miles away.

How much a night? £100 per room per night,with full English breakfast and newspaper.