Sarah Tucker 

All that jazz

Jazz FM presenter Sarah Tucker gives an insider's guide to the world's best festivals.
  
  

Dizzy Gillespie
The late Dizzy Gillespie at the Monterey jazz festival, 1990 Photograph: AP

Every August, the village of Marciac's population of 200 increases a hundred-fold as 20,000 jazz lovers from all over the world descend on this sleepy corner of south-west France to watch the world's leading jazz artists perform in a marquee on the village rugby pitch.

Jazz enthusiasts take their music seriously. So seriously that they are prepared to cross continents in order to hear their favourite artists perform and to rub shoulders with fellow aficionados. Which may explain why audiences for jazz festivals are growing faster than for any other type of music festival worldwide.

'Numbers are increasing simply because jazz today is more diverse. Artists at these gigs perform everything from acid, to dixie, to funk, to smooth, to latin jazz,' says saxophonist Igor Butman, who owns a fashionable jazz bar in Moscow. 'Festivals attract a typical audience of stressed out, cash rich, time poor thirty-somethings. They're tired of the commercialism and tack surrounding rock festivals and aren't quite ready to give into the sedate armchair world of classical concerts. They want to chill out but don't want to rough it.'

The festivals, many of which are free, can last anything from a few days to a few months, and the larger events attract up to 200,000 people. They are often held in dramatic or enchanting surroundings, tend to be extremely well organised (with well developed and informative websites) and attract major artists from all over the world.

It is worth noting that tickets, flights and accommodation for some of the most popular events book up months in advance. For some festivals it is more cost-effective to book flights and accommodation separately from the tickets, while for others you will need to book a package.

The following guide shows you how to get the most out of 10 of the best and most established festivals, including inside tips on where to stay, where to eat and where to go to rub shoulders with the performers.

1 San Francisco Jazz Festival
(24 Oct-4 Nov)

The biggest and probably the best festival in the world, the city lives and breathes jazz for two weeks in October, when the good and the great perform in venues throughout San Francisco. Venues such as the Masonic Auditorium, Bimbo's Club and Paramount Theatre based in and around the Civic Centre and Yerba Buena attract major audiences and performers, although you'll hear jazz in every bar you happen to stray into during that period.

Performers: Over the years, Dizzie Gillespie, Oscar Petersen and Nina Simone have all performed at this event. This year's line-up includes Dianne Reeves and Joshua Redman.

Where to stay: Stay at the Prescott Hotel (001 415 563 0303) where the stars hang out for a chat and jam after the performance. Rooms cost from $150-$249 (£109-180) a night. This hotel is also part-sponsoring the festival this year.

Where to eat: Eat at Clouds restaurant, which is close to the festival venues for Californian fare (excellent crab cakes, spinach salads, seared tuna) at 720 Howard Street (001 415 278 0432). Their Sunday brunch at $15 is excellent value and includes live jazz if you can't get enough of it at the festival itself.

How to get there: American Airlines (08457 789 789) is one of the festival sponsors.

More information: www.sfjazz.org, www.sfvisitor.org or www.sanfrancisco.com

2 North Sea Jazz Festival, The Hague
(13-15 July)

It's the biggest indoor jazz festival in the world, and for three days in July each year, the Eurocrats are replaced by musicians at the Congress Centre and red tape is lost in blue notes. Over 1,200 musicians - jazz legends and young talents, national and international- will perform on 15 stages, all under one roof. Prices for tickets start at $50 (£36).

Performers: Artists performing this year include Taj Mahal, Carmen Lundy featuring Victor Lewis & Donald Harrison, Clarke Terry and Randy Weston.

Where to stay: Convention Travel (0031 70 354 4111) can arrange hotels and festivals tickets. It's difficult to book hotels on your own.

Where to eat: A famous Indonesian restaurant where Oscar Petersen ate is Garoeda, Kneuterdijk 18a, 2514 The Hague ( 00 31 70 346 5319). Meals cost about £25 a head, with wine. Book a month in advance or you won't get a table.

How to get there: Daily flights with bmi (01332 854 000) and KLM (08705 074074)

More information: www.northseajazz.nl. Netherlands Board of Tourism 0906 871 7777.

3 St Lucia Jazz Festival
(4-13 May)

Sun, sand, sea and a wide range of artists performing under the stars. Tickets to the festival start from $38-$70 (£28-51).

Performers: Miriam Makeba, Eric Benet, Jill Scott, Carl Thomas and Luther Vandross will be performing on the main stage at Pigeon Island.

Where to stay: The Jalousie Hilton Resort and Spa (001 758 459 7666) has its own jazz band, which plays for Sunday brunch. Rooms from $250 (£181) a night.

Where to eat: The Bistro on the waterfront (001 758 452 9494) has excellent fish and creole dishes and is popular with the musicians.

How to get there: British Airways (0845 773 3377) and Virgin Atlantic (01293 747 747) fly to St Lucia. First Choice (0870 750 0001) has a 14-night package in May for £849 a person including accommodation, return flights and transfers.

More information: www.stluciajazz.com. St Lucia Tourist Board (020 7431 3675)

4 Nice Jazz Festival
(first week in July)

Idyllic setting among the olive groves and ancient ruins of the Cimiez arenas and gardens. The festival attracts up to 10,000 people during the week, events frequently spilling over into the streets and emerging as all-night jamborees. Even the churches and cinemas get into the swing of things by incorporating a jazz theme or rhythm to their viewing or morning worship.

Performers: Luther Vandross, Youssou n'Dour and Dee Dee Bridgewater.

Where to stay: The Radisson Hotel (00 33 4 9337 1717) is close to the action and many of the artists stay here.

Where to eat: La Petite Maison at 11 rue St Francois de Paul (00 33 4 93 92 59 59) offers typical Provençal fare. Try their bouillabaise.

How to get there: Fly with Air France (0845 0845 111) or low-cost carriers EasyJet (0870 6000 000) or Go (0845 605 4321).

More information: No official website but email: nicejazfest@moos.fr for further information or visit www.nice-coteazur.org. French Tourist Board: 0906 824 4123 (premium rate information line).

5 Brecon Jazz Festival
(10-12 August)

No guarantee of blue skies but you do get the talent. Hundreds of artists will descend on this historic town to perform in more than 90 concerts. Intimate venues such as the Market Hall and Theatre Brycheiniog allow you to get close to the performers.

Performers: Artists this year include Phil Woods Big Band, Dr John and the Charles Light Quartet.

Where to stay : The Castle Hotel (01874 624 611) is within walking distance of the venues. Bed and breakfast from £69.

Where to eat: The Dickens (01874 623 421) at the George Hotel where steaks are grilled on the cobbled terrace, and you can listen to the resident jazz band. A meal with wine costs from £20 a head.

How to get there: To reach Brecon drive along the A47, off the M4. The nearest station is Abergavenny, which is a 30-minute drive from the festival.

More information: www.breconjazz.com. Wales Tourist Board: 02920 499 909

6 Paris Jazz Festival
(Weekends from May to the end of July)

Held in the glorious parkland setting of the Delta concert area, the festival has a reputation for attracting the best of new talent as well as major players.

Performers: Courtney Pine, Joshua Redman Band and Roy Hargrove Quintet among others.

Where to stay: Rub shoulders with the artists at the Holiday Inn Republique (00 33 1 4355 4434).

Where to eat: Les Magnolias, situated in the centre of the park (00 33 1 4808 3388). This restaurant serves traditional French fare, including an excellent salade nicoise with seared tuna.

How to get there: Air France (0845 0845 111); Eurostar (0870 6000 792).

More information: www.parcfloral.com. Paris Tourist Office (00 33 155942020).

7 Guinness Cork Jazz Festival
(26-29 October)

Largest jazz event in Ireland and feted as the friendliest in Europe. Last year more than 40,000 attended, and more than 20,000 gallons of Guiness were drunk. Now in its 24th year, with more than 100 bands from 25 countries taking part. Most shows are free.

Performers: The Everyman Palace Theatre and Metropole Ryan hotel will play host to a line-up including Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Ronnie Laws and Acoustic Alchemy.

Where to stay: Jurys Inn (00 353 21 427 6622) is a small hotel close to the concert venues which even has jazz playing in the public toilets. Rooms from £60 per person per night.

Where to eat: Paddy Garibaldis in the High Street (00 353 21 434 5255) claims to serve Ireland's best Irish stew. Many artists eat here.

How to get there: Aer Lingus (020 8899 4747) flies to Cork three times a day from Heathrow.

More information: Festival hotline: 00353 1676 5342 or www.corkjazzfestival.com. Irish Tourist Board (0800 039 7000)

8 Marciac Jazz Festival
(2-15 August)

Held in a tiny medieval village in the heart of south-west France, it's hard to get to but worth the effort. Wynton Marsalis was so inspired by the charm of the place he wrote a suite in its honour (Marciac Suite). Lots of wonderful country walks to take in between the performances.

Performers: Regina Carter, Wynton Marsalis and Ahmad Jamal will be making their way to Marciac this year. Other highlights include a gospel performance in the church and jazz-related cinema screenings.

Where to stay: Accommodation and restaurants are at a premium. You will probably have to commute in from a nearby village. Try the Chateau de Sombrun (00 33 562 964943) with rooms from 320FF (£31) a night.

Where to eat: Marciac has only two restaurants: La Peniche (00 33 562 093846), on the edge of the lake, and La Petite Auberge (00 33 562 093133). Book months ahead for a table.

How to get there: It's a three-hour drive to Marciac from the nearest airport. Fly to Toulouse with British Airways (0845 773 3377), Air France (0845 0845 111) or low cost carrier Buzz. You'll need to pick up a car from the airport. Try Holiday Autos (0870 400 0000)

More information: www.marciac.com

9 Montreux Jazz Festival
(6-21 July)

Since it started in 1967 the great and the good have all performed here, from Nina Simone to Ella Fitzgerald, Stan Getz, Charlie Mingus and Dexter Gordon. Brazilian and Cuban weekends are held at the Jazz Cafe. Some 350 free concerts are staged in four open-air stages, with the backdrop of Lake Geneva and Alps. Musical and dance cruises take place on the lake and even on three 'Dixieland' trains. You will need to book well in advance for tickets, as well as accommodation and restaurants.

Performers: Jimmy Johnson and Russell Malone have been confirmed so far.

Where to stay: The Hotel du Lac (00 41 21 921 1041) in Vevey has magnificent views over the lake. You'll be able to listen to the performances from your balcony. Rooms from £90 per night.

Where to eat: Harry's Bar (0041 21 962 1400) at Grand Rue 55 is a favourite with performers.

How to get there: Fly to Geneva with Swissair (020 7434 7200) or Easyjet.

More information: www.montreuxjazz.com. Swiss Tourism: 020 7581 1700.

10 Montreal Jazz Festival (28 June-8 July)

More than 400 live shows, including 300 jazz concerts, in the heart of downtown Montreal. Expect to hear jazz and blues in bars, clubs, hotel lobbies, restaurants, museums, galleries and spilling out into the streets.

Performers: Wynton Marsalis, Clarke Terry, Miriam Makeba, Eric Benet and Luther Vandross head this year's bill.

Where to stay: Hotel Versailles (001 514 933 8111) is a charming boutique hotel within walking distance of many of the venues. The Hotel St Denis (001 514 849 4526) is a short taxi drive from the Oscar Petersen concert hall.

Where to eat: Spot the artists chilling out at the Globe Bar and Restaurant (001 514 284 3823) at 3455 Saint Laurent Blvd which serves Canadian and French fare.

How to get there: Daily flights with Air Canada (08705 247226) to Montreal.

More information: www.montrealjazzfest.com. Canadian Tourism Commission: 0906 871 5000 (premium rate line).

• Sarah Tucker presents the Jazz Fm Travel Guide on Thursdays between 7-8pm on Jazz Fm 102.2fm, which regularly features music from festivals around the world.

 

Leave a Comment

Required fields are marked *

*

*