Why? I first went there 20 years ago when a friend of mine was converting four derelict villas. He was the only Englishman in town and he used to drive around in an old Land Rover with a Halifax number plate. It was very much a working town then, and not a very pretty place. There were a few men's bars and one family-owned supermarket, but certainly no restaurants. There were no cars and everything was lit by gaslight, but I liked its intimacy. Gradually, more and more villas got built, but the place still feels the same.

What's the best thing? I love sitting in the square at about 11.30am when the delicious local chicken pies come out of the oven. I like watching the town going about its business. There are always big lorries thundering past, laden with cork or great slabs of marble or timber.

My perfect day: I'd enjoy a lazy meal at my favourite restaurant. Oddly enough, it doesn't seem to have a name. Some call it Chicken Joe's; others, Smokey Joe's, but everyone knows the Chicken Place. It pioneered the delicacy of chicken and chips; the chicken used to be cooked on a barbecue outside and the chips inside. It was very difficult to spend £10 on a meal for four, and they used to come out and write the bill on the paper tablecloths. It's a huge business now. I went in there once and somebody pointed out the mayor of Berlin!

My advice: Don't bother taking too much money. It's not an expensive place.

Getting there: British Airways (0845 7733377, www. british airways.co.uk) flies from Gatwick to Faro from around £263 return. San Bras de Alportel is a 20-minute drive from Faro.

Richard Whiteley's autobiography, Himoff!, is published in Orion paperback at £6.99.