Helsinki is youthful, dynamic and stylish - a city graced by superb architecture, parks and lakes. Whole areas are given over to souped-up wireless internet connectivity, wild nightlife and decent food. Here are a few things you should not miss out on while you're there.
Look at the buildings
A simple way to grasp the historical forces that have shaped the Finnish capital is through the architecture. Finland, while hanging on to its language and individuality during Swedish and Russian rule, only achieved independence in 1917 after the fall of the old Russian empire. As a result, Russian influence still looms large. A trip to the huge white sepulchre of Engel's cathedral at Senate Square reveals cobbled streets, neo-classical grandeur and the nearby Uspenski Orthodox church. The Russians drafted in the same gang of architects that created St Petersburg and the back streets around Senate Square are a mini-facsimile of Helsinki's eastern neighbour.
Towards the end of the Russian empire there was a flowering of national romanticism in Helsinki via huge granite buildings embossed with Finnish symbols such as characters from the national epic the Kalevala. During the 1920s and 30s, flush with the optimism of independence, a group of young, idealistic Finnish architects and designers led by Aalvar Aalto made their mark. Functionalism and art deco held sway through buildings such as the central Lasipalatsi - part of the 1940 Olympic village, not used until 1952 because of the second world war, and now a public library and media centre. Aalto added to the functionalism of the city centre with the Finlandia hall on the shores of Lake Toolo. Now Nokia cash is leading to a massive expansion of glass and steel superstructures.
Drink some coffee
Finns drink the most coffee per capita in the world - in sophisticated surroundings.
Drink something harder
A groovy bar and club scene is blooming - underground electronic music by the likes of Opel Bastards provide a soundtrack - all in cool, designer settings. And Finns do know how to party - hardened barflies will be pressed to find a more user-friendly city.
Kerma - Erottaja 7. Funk, soul, touch of latino and hip-hop tunes set in the one of Helsinki's most happening clubs.
Tori - Punavuorenkatu 2. Laid-back bar-cum-café where you'll hear jazzy sounds and hang with Helsinki's coolest crowd.
Sauna Bar - Eerikinkatu 27. Legendary Helsinki venue where you can slip off between drinks to a sauna. On Sunday nights, Tikse, one of the most original DJs in Europe, spins everything from industrial to children's songs while talking in tongues.
Moskva - Eerikinkatu 11. Owned by Finnish film legends the Kaurismaki brothers and cast firmly in stylised retro-Soviet image.
Corona - Eerikinkatu 11. Another Kaurismaki-owned bar, Corona - housed in the same block as Moskva - is the meeting point for virtually all Helsinki's youthful free thinkers. Beer and pool tables dominate.
Take a sauna
Before Nokia came along, the sauna was arguably Finland's greatest export and no visit to Helsinki is complete without at least an hour ensconced in cleansing steam. There's a variety of settings available, from city centre deco complexes through to traditional wood smoke cabin's in their own grounds with a jetty for jumping immediately into the Baltic.
The beaches are clean and easily accessible and on warmer summer evenings can become party zones.
Finnish Sauna Society - Vaskiniemi, Lauttasaari. Booking required (+358 9 6860560). A short taxi ride from the centre in its own private grounds with a bathing jetty on the Baltic, this is the place to experience a full-blown sauna. There are five grades, from 70C through to a scorching wood smoke effort that peaks at 130C.
Yrjonkatu Swimming Hall - Yrjonkatu 21b (+358 9 31087401). Recently renovated public sauna and baths in the middle of town. All tiles, wood and steel - and you can rent private cabins to chill out in between steams.
Kotiharjun Sauna - Harjutonrinkatu, nr Sornainen subway (+358 9 753 1535). Another classic Finnish interior in the original workers' district across the bridge in Kallio - a really great spot for a steam.
Go to the park
Kaivopuisto is a beautiful park that skirts the sea. Great place for picnics and to relax - during winter there is a public observatory open where you can peer at the stars. The park also houses a couple of museums - one dedicated to Finland's sort-of dictator and national hero Mannerheim; the other is the Cygnaeus Gallery, a collection of 19th-century objets d'art in a turreted villa.
Go to an island
Suomenlinna is an ancient island fortress just outside the harbour and is now home to a slightly bohemian community and a couple of interesting museums. Ferries from Helsinki.
Visit a museum
The Museum of Contemporary Art - The Kiamsa (Mannerheiminaukio 2) is Stephen Holl's post-modern vision in the centre of Helsinki that has provoked much gnashing of teeth among locals. But it's largely a triumph. Hit-and-miss experimental offerings set in a twisting arc of exciting gallery spaces.
Shop
Stockman - at the junction of Mannerheimintie and Aleksanterinkatu, this is northern Europe's biggest department store - a kind of Harrods meets Kwik Save. Great deli counter in the basement.
Formverk - Annankatu 5. Designer furniture and domestic equipment.
Helsinki Ostaa Ja Myy - Annankatu 5. Fantastic array of second-hand designer furniture from Finland and Denmark. An eccentric jumble that includes everything from Arne Jacobsen's legendary egg chair through to Eero Aarnio's globe and a smattering of Aalto's wave-inspired efforts. They will export.
Eats
The eclecticism of Helsinki should satisfy everyone. Quite decent wok-inspired noodleries abound and sushi is just beginning to take off. Traditional Lappish sautéed reindeer and smoked while-you-wait fish can be had along with a smattering of excellent Russian dishes. There's a couple of Scandic fusion-type Michelin places, but for a real blast of Finnish fare head for the Kauppihallis on Helsinki harbour and Hakaniemitori. These market halls are full of tiny eateries and delis serving everything from smoked lamb to fresh, wild berries sold by the litre and the tastiest rye bread. The harbour-side hall is a bit touristy and overpriced, so head for the hall by the main square in the workers' district of Hakaniemi.
Ravintola Lasipalatsi - Mannerheimintie 22-24. In one of the buildings built for the 1940 Olympics, this city centre restaurant sells decent Scandic fusion food in a stylish setting.
Bellevue - Rahapajankatu 3. A grand Russian restaurant that some critics have reckoned to be as good as anything on offer in the motherland. Caviar, borscht and blinis, though you'll run up a big bill if you indulge.
Lappi - Annankatu 22. Reindeer, fresh wild berries - including the arctic cloud berry - and smoked-to-order fish provide an introduction to the Finland's Lappish fare.
Chez Dominique - Ludviginkatu 3-5. Recent Finnish restaurant of the year and possessing a coveted Michelin star, this tiny, minimalist, white-walled affair attracts a youthful crowd to taste its original Scando-French cuisine.
Where to stay
Torni - Yrjonkatu 26 (+358 9 131 131). £60+. This central 1930s hotel was modelled on a Chicago skyscraper in style not scale. Great views across the city. A bar with an outdoor patio at the top makes a fab spot for cocktails.
Simonkentta - Simonkatu 9 (+358 9 68380). £70+. Swish new central hotel -all steel, glass and pine flooring. Pricier rooms have saunas.
Academica - Hietaniemenkatu 14 (+358 9 13114334). £20+. Affordable summer-only clean, central hostel with double rooms and dorms. Rooms have their own cooking facilities.
Way to go
Getting there: Finnair (0870 2414411) flies daily from Manchester, Gatwick and Heathrow with return fares from £180. Buzz (0870 2407070) flies daily from Stansted from £45 one way inc taxes
Getting around: Excellent affordable network of trams, buses, subway, local train and some ferries. Single journey tickets bought in R Kioski newsagents are valid for an hour and are transferable across most modes of transport. Also deposit-only City Bikes are available at a number of stands in the centre.
Further information: The Finnish Tourist Board (020-7365 2512) can supply maps and further details, while the Helsinki City Tourist Office at Pohjoiesplanadi 19 (+358 9 1693757) is a great resource when you get there. Time difference: + 2hrs
Finnmarks 9.3 = £1.
Flight time from London: 2h50m Country code: +358
