The pace of economic change in Ireland is astonishing. In Kilkenny two years ago, there was a serious problem with car theft. These days, the bottom has fallen out of the domestic car robbery business - everyone and his uncle seems to be driving a new Golf
Fortunately, you don't need a car in Kilkenny itself. "The marble city" (it gets the nickname from the locally mined shiny limestone) may be Ireland's original capital but it is a small, manageable place. Recently, Dublin wanted to downgrade the city to the status of town - population of 22,000 was been deemed too low - but the council was up in arms and appears to have won the fight. "You can't change history," I was told by a relieved drinker in Cleere's bar on Parliament Street.
Despite two cathedrals and an imposing 12th-century castle overlooking the River Nore, Kilkenny feels like a town. It consists of little more than the High Street, which at one end turns into Parliament Street and at the other forks off into Patrick Street and The Parade. The new Market Cross shopping centre is tucked away in the back streets, leaving the picturesque centre looking pretty much the same as it did a quarter of a century ago.
If there is one major change, apart from the increased traffic, however, you only notice it in the evenings. In the summer months in particular, when the city hosts a number of festivals, the pavements used to team with drinkers, spilling out from the 68 pubs. But since May, a new local by-law has decreed that drinking in the street is subject to a spot fine of £25. Mercifully, the laid-back garda don't enforce the law, unless drinkers are a danger to themselves or somebody else. This ad hoc attitude appears to please everyone.
You cannot really spend time in Kilkenny without indulging in a spot of pub life. Cork brewery Murphy's sponsors the annual Cat Laughs Comedy Festival every June, and local brewery Smithwick's is one of the backers of the annual arts festival from August 10-19.
There's a bar to suit everyone's taste. Langton's for a swaying Saturday night crowd of all ages, John Cleere's for a peaceful pint. Try Kytelers if you like your bar to come with Greco-Roman decor.
Kilkenny is a good base for travelling around the south-eastern edges of Ireland. Crystal fans can visit Waterford, an hour to the south, but there are numerous less hyped staging posts reachable by smaller roads where you are more likely to be trapped behind a sheep than a Subaru. Somehow this part of Ireland can't quite get to grips with the economic revolution and is all the more endearing for it.
Seven miles out of the city are the Dunmore Caves - a remarkable underground site only discovered 30 years ago when a field subsided. Bones and coins were found and it was concluded that local folk took refuge down here from marauding Vikings. Earlier this year, more jewellery was discovered and further excavations started, forcing the caves to close temporarily. Other scenic attractions include the Woodstock estate. In 1922, following its occupation by the Black and Tans, the house was set on fire, leaving a decaying shell behind. Renovation has been ongoing for a number of years and its grandeur is slowly returning. Perched high on the hill overlooking Inistioge, the dramatic view alone is worth a visit.
Maeve Binchy's romantic yarn Circle of Friends, which starred Minnie Driver in the film version, was filmed in Inistioge, though the town has been slow to exploit the connection. There is one small café which takes its name from the book and film.
And Curracloe beach, an hour east, is where the opening shots of Saving Private Ryan were filmed. Once again, you only discover this by word of mouth. There isn't a Private Ryan's ice cream stall to be seen.
That's the attraction of this corner of Ireland. Despite a hardening approach to commerce and a more cosmopolitan outlook, some things never change. The Dublin rush hour might extend down the motorways these days, but there are still pockets of unchanging beauty. Around Kilkenny life goes on as it always did. It is only the cars that are flashier and faster.
Way to go
Getting there: Aer Lingus (0845 9737747, aerlingus.com) flies to Dublin from Heathrow from £79 including taxes and airport charges, but airline prices are fiercely competitive, so it may be worth shopping around. Fly/drive deals are also available.
Where to stay: Kilkenny Tourism (00 353 56 51500) can arrange accommodation ranging from B&B at I£20pp in a double room to the River Court Hotel, which has its own leisure centre and overlooks the River Nore. Singles there start at I£140, doubles from I£115, although there are special deals available.
Further information: Irish Tourist Board: 0800 0397000.
Country code: 00 353. Approx flight time from London to Dublin: 1 hour 25 minutes.
