Konrad Bartelski 

Cool alternatives

How far do you have to go to get away from the crowds? Konrad Bartelski chooses five characterful resorts.
  
  

Baqueira-Beret, France
Baqueira-Beret, France Photograph: Public domain

When I last went on holiday to Canada, I had a bit of shock on arrival at the Lake Louise Inn. Just about everyone was speaking with a British accent. Somehow the magic of having arrived at a long-haul destination was immediately eroded.

To many, including myself, travelling remains a form of adventure. So falling out of a tour operator's coach directly into a warm chalet might be convenient, but does it really stimulate? Or is it possible to go somewhere with enough skiing and lifts and where the likelihood of bumping into your neighbour would actually be a real surprise?

Well, the first surprise is that you can forget having to add Argentina or India to your list of prospective destinations. There are still a number of resorts with character in Europe that are overlooked by the thousands who boomerang back to their Val d'Isères and Zermatts.

Sölden, Austria

Situated in the Oetz Valley, - perhaps better known for the lofty village of Obergurgl - Sölden is one of the higher Austrian resorts at an altitude of 1,380 metres. The lift system now connects right up to the Tiefenbach glacier, over 3,000m high, which gives both a clue to the amount of skiing that might be available, and guarantees the skiing, no matter what time of year.

It is a popular destination with the Dutch and the Germans, who generally contribute to what can best be described as a lively, or even rowdy, night life. But it is most certainly an Austrian resort, where the schnapps, gluhwein and jaegertee are an essential part of the holiday.

The village is spread out along the river, which bisects the valley (not ideal), but there's a great selection of smart, yet reasonably priced hotels, like the Regina, which I very much enjoyed a few years ago. Typical Tyrolean architecture maintains the traditional feel of the place.

Website: soelden.com
Esprit Ski (01252 618300, esprit-holidays.co.uk) offers a week's half-board at Hotel Bergland for £399 per adult, which includes flights from Gatwick. Sölden's family deal which one free child lift pass for families with two or thre children and two free child passes for families with four children.

Madonna di Campiglio, Italy

Another oasis in the desert of predictable resorts, Madonna di Campiglio is in the Dolomites - an extraordinary display of jagged rock formations that rise up between the more familiar Alps.

The village of Madonna is quite modern, yet fortunately not full of French-style high-rise obscenities, and is mainly frequented by stylish Italians. So smart shops and great restaurants abound.

The skiing is split between three different mountains, Passo Goste, Padalago, and Pancugolo, the highest of which rises up to 2,505m. Each offers a very different experience and variety of mixed terrain. There are a good number of atmospheric and friendly mountain restaurants, too, where you can put your feet up and soak up both the sunshine and the scenery.

If you are feeling more active, you won't have far to go for a real challenge. Winding right down in to the village is the 3-Tre World Cup racecourse, the nearly vertical slalom-hill, where Britain's Alain Baxter raced last winter to a brilliant eighth in the world. Just trying to get down is an achievement in itself.

Website: campiglio.net
Thomson (0870 6061470, thomson-ski.co.uk) offer a week's self-catering, four sharing from £245pp inc flights from Gatwick and transfers.

Serre-Chevalier, France

Many of the concrete resorts dreamt up in an architect's office leave me cold. So, when I drove in to Serre-Chevalier for the first time, I had a pleasant surprise. This still looked like a mountain village, but one that had sensibly accommodated the influx of skiers in a balanced way.

Serre-Chevalier is actually the 2,500m-high mountain that towers over the villages of Villeneuve, Chantemerle, and le Montier, which are dotted along the valley floor. Although this is a bit of a disadvantage because every amenity is not on your doorstep, it greatly adds to the variety of night-life.

This is rustic France, with a few hotels casually dropped in. The skiing is remarkably extensive - more than 150 miles of pistes on L'Eychuda, the Tète de la Balme - and holds quite a few surprises with the different opportunities in store. This is one of the resorts I left feeling there was so much more to be explored.

Website: serrechevalier.com.
Erna Lowe (020-7584 7820) offers a week staying in a self-catering apartment from £406 (total) based on four people sharing a studio. The price of the self-drive holiday includes a ferry crossing.

Baqueira-Beret, Spain

Mention the Pyrenees and people immediately think of Andorra. However, the size and area of the mountain range is nearly always a great surprise to the first-time visitor. Both on the Spanish and the French side of the mountains are a number of unexpectedly interesting resorts that capture the charm and character of their respective nations.

If you want to escape the ubiquitous steak-frîtes or wiener schnitzel after a long day on the slopes, Baqueira-Beret offers something very different: tapas and paella. The Spanish purpose-built resort is very much a total transformation to our preconceived idea of a skiing holiday, and refreshingly so. Where most resorts have adapted and now cater for the many British visitors, this chic winter sports centre in the rugged countryside is full of a smart Spanish clientele, including the Spanish royal family.

The mountains themselves are no slouches, rising from the resort at 1,500m up to 2,500m. Spreading out in comfortable style above the two bases of Baqueira and Beret and with 27 lifts, the skiing is generally what I would class as the "comfortable" variety, with a great array of intermediate runs. The more challenging skiing is best found with the help of the local guides

Dinner in Spain is usually taken very late, and the night-life does not really get going until after midnight. The good news, though, is that at least there aren't too many people up for the first lift in the morning.

Website: baqueira.sp
Ski Miquel (01457 821200, miquelhols.co.uk) offers seven nights in their own chalet hotel, inc breakfast, tea, three-course evening meal with drinks and five-day ski guiding programme from £395pp, with flights from Manchester or Gatwick.

Barèges, France

The old spa village of Barèges, on the other side of the border, is France's second oldest resort. Originally famed for its thermal baths, its ski area is shared with the purpose-built La Mongie. The two areas have 47 lifts and nearly 70 miles of marked pistes, most of which might best be termed as great cruising terrain. I was not disappointed with the magnitude of the skiing, everything was noticeably cheaper than in the customary French Alpine resorts, and the locals had a lot more time for you.

If you want to explore, the beautiful city of Pau is not too far away. Lourdes is a worthy day-trip. Toulouse is the nearest useable airport.

Website: touradour.com
SkiAway Holidays (01903 824823) offers seven days' self-catering, driving down through France, from £185pp, two sharing. They have hotels, too. Flights and trains can be used.

 

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