· A few years ago I travelled by rail from Asilah (between Rabat and Tangier) to Meknes and Fes. Go for first class to be sure of a bit of comfort. We upgraded retrospectively with the assistance of a friendly transport policeman. He had convinced us to share an air-conditioned first class compartment with him, second class being fully occupied.
On the return journey we ended up in third class - not a particularly pleasant experience in the heat, but nonetheless culturally interesting. At every stop a fresh range of produce appeared at the open window, and the 'trolley service' consisted of a bucket of muddy water in which floated a motley selection of fruit and rusty cans.
For some online info on Morocco, see www.lexicorient.com/morocco.
Brian Fawcus, Coventry
· I travelled around Morocco by train in September 2000 and generally found them a reliable source of transport. There are, however, a couple of things which are useful to know. Firstly, that despite what most guide books say, there are no direct trains from Tangier to Marrakech. We found this out the hard way and had to spend 4/5 hours at Casablanca station late at night on both the way down and the way back. Secondly, that the toilet facilities on the trains are very rudimentary. Often only one or two toilets on the train have running water for washing hands. Also, some knowledge of French is very useful when buying train tickets - we met only one English-speaking employee during our two-week stay.
Aside from these problems however, train travel was inexpensive and a very useful and enjoyable way of travelling around the country.
Mark Lewis
· Travelling around morocco by train? Expect the best of times and the worst of times. Adventure awaits! I did just that in 1996. As the train left Tangiers for Rabat, a poor soul threw himself on to the line and committed suicide. The omens were bad. From Rabat to Fes we had no seats and had to stand for hours in intense heat amongst the locals, eyeball to eyeball with their produce and their goats. When the train slowly emptied and we found a seat a charming man burst into our compartment and demanded we buy 'hashish'. When we refused he pulled a knife on us. We dived off at the next stop.
On the plus side, the scenery was stunning, the locals shared their food with us, the tickets were cheap and we made lasting friends with some German backpackers. Alternatively, the bus network is cheap and very efficient. Morocco is an experience that stays with you for a very long time. Have fun.
Sincerely, S. Matheson
· Arriving in Casablanca by train late at night is dangerous. The station is surrounded by unlit suburbia and various leery men followed us by car. We gave up and paid for the only hotel - next to the station but very pricey by Moroccan standards. In fact, I'd advise missing Casablanca altogether and spending more time in Essouiera or Marrakesh.
Travelling in the first class overnight trains is unmissable and fun - once. Given that there is no privacy in them anyway - there are six to a booth - the more spacious second class is a better option.
Rochelle Harris
· I really don't agree with the reply from Rochelle Harris. Casablanca is a lot less dangerous than many major world cities. I've walked around most of Casa at night, including the Medina and haven't had any problems - although I once saw a Moroccan guy on the other side of the street get mugged for his trainers in preference to mine! My (female) partner also used to take long walks alone in Casa without problems. I think it's a question of how you present yourself.
I assume the hotel she refers to is the Moussafir Ibis, which is pricey for Morocco, especially as the reception guys charge unwary tourists more than the going rate. If she and her companion(s) had only cast their eyes to the left of the station, instead of right towards the Ibis, they'd have seen a cheap hotel (100DH for a double room), the Hotel de la Gare. Asking the information booth in the station, which is very helpful, would have elicited the info that a 15DH taxi-ride would take them to Casa Central, where there are any number of hotels for about 100DH a night. As for the trains, they are (usually) swift, clean and reliable. I really do advise taking 1st Class for the cleanliness, mind you, although on major express routes, 2nd Class is often not unbearable. There can be a problem with water in the loos, which are a European-style affair over a metal pipe leading straight to the track. Take your own lavatory paper! The ONCF, the Moroccan train company, has just re-opened the line from Casa Voyageurs to El Jadida, which is a trip worth taking to a town worth seeing. There are only 2nd Class wagons on this route. There has also been a link in existence for some years now from the Mohammed 5th airport to Casa Voyageurs, which takes 1/2 an hour.
John Williamson
