First impressions: Carpets stretching down to the pavement, sumptuous lobby with leather upholstered furniture and cavernous sofas. Lots of mock-Louis XIV décor, though it was actually opened in 1932. When I get out of the lift for my room on the seventh floor, I'm greeted by a strange man who turns out to be my butler. I'm too taken aback to allow him to unpack my clothes, but he does press my shirts, clean my shoes and bring tea on a silver tray.

The rooms: From the beautifully upholstered chairs to the gorgeously comfortable bed, it's all extremely traditional and very posh. The technology isn't neglected though - as well as providing a complimentary mobile phone for the duration of the stay, the Alvear will also install a PC in your room, gratis.

The bathrooms: Lovely Hermes toiletries, and a good size bath that doubles as a half-hearted jacuzzi.

The restaurant: In contrast to the classic - old-fashioned? - interiors of the lobby and rooms, the cellar dining rooms of La Bourgogne are light, modern, and understated. The food, though, is regarded as some of the best in Buenos Aires (and is the only Relais Gourmand restaurant in South America). Outstanding breakfast buffet in the glass-roofed Orangerie on the ground floor.

What else can you do there? The usual health club and business centre.

What is there to see within walking distance? Generally you don't walk from here, you get the doorman to flag you down a taxi. You can though step out for upmarket shopping, while one of BA's more macabre attractions, the Recoleta cemetery, which houses the tomb of Eva Peron, is just a couple of streets away.

How much? From £270 per night for a standard double; suites start at £350 up to £2000 for room 924, the Royal Suite.

Address: Avenida Alvear 1891, C1129AAA Buenos Aires, Argentina

Telephone: (54) 11 4808 2170

Website: www.alvearpalace.com