First impressions: You can't come to the Copacabana Palace without some preconceptions - this is most definitely a hotel with a history. The lobby doesn't give much away but when you walk up to the first floor it's a different matter. The wall of the long, light gallery is adorned with portraits of the great and good who have passed through these doors (and we're only talking the cream of international the A-list). The large poolside terrace is the social hub, where the band playing in the early evening barely disturbs the ultra-relaxed guests lounging in robes after a quick dip.
The rooms: Surprisingly minimal and understated in the junior suites, although there is an extra, air-conditioned walk-in wardrobe on top of the one in my bedroom (and one where even the most casually discarded sock is folded neatly on a shelf by the maids). A peep at the penthouses on the upper floors of the beachfront wing shows that some are more extravagantly kitted out - mahogany floors and a James Bond style cabinet into which the TV disappears at the flick of a switch, leaving a sparkling mirrored table. More fun than watching Brazilian cable channels, anyway.
The bathroom: Again, not ostentatious but well-equipped: twin sinks and a good, hot, roaring bath. Only the Copacabana soap is pleasantly outsized.
The restaurant: Fabulous service and food at the Cipriani - Italian rather than Brazilian, but you can't nit-pick at getting European cuisine in a different continent when it's done this well. Gorgeously crafted meals. A less formal option is the second restaurant, the Pergula.
What else can you do there? Play tennis on the roof, or check your emails in a business centre that's almost as relaxing as other hotel's spas. Or, if you're fabulously wealthy, host a party in the Salão Nobre and Golden Room with accompanying underlit glass dance floor.
What is there to see within walking distance? Acres of flesh on Copacabana beach, and the whole strip of cocktail bars.
How much? From approximately £170 per night for a simple double.
Address: Avenida Atlantica 1702, Rio de Janeiro, CEP 22021-001, Brazil
Telephone: (55) 21 548 7070
Website: www.copacabanapalace.orient-express.com
