Taking on Mont Blanc

· My son has no mountaineering experience but wants to climb Mont Blanc this summer with a group of people. Should he do a course in situ, or do one earlier elsewhere? Can anybody recommend any courses? Marianne
  
  


· I am absolutely astounded by Marianne's letter and very worried for her son and friends. Does she not realise the enormity of the climb up Mont Blanc? It is serious mountain climbing, requiring not only above-average fitness but also skills in ice climbing techniques. No doubt he may find a guide that will take them up, but he would be advised to first take some courses concentrating on basic techniques. For local advice and information, look at Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix Mt-Blanc (www.cieguides-chamonix.com). Walking and climbing can bring enormous pleasure over a number of years. Mont Blanc will still be there when your son is old and grey!
John Evans

·I strongly recommend that your son attends a course in the UK first, not only will he learn the basics but he'll also be advised on the correct equipment to take. My son attended his first course at the excellent Bowles Outdoor Centre in Kent (01892 665665). He then went on a couple of weekend trips to Snowdonia to try things out.The Plas y Brenin Centre is first rate, with many courses where young people can gain experience. The British Mountaineering Club could put him in touch with groups in your area. Try Chalet Savoy for activity holidays on Mont Blanc. On accompanying my son on these courses, my husband became very enthusiastic and joined a course at the age of 40. He has since climbed numerous mountains in the Dolomites, and climbing has become his passion! He recommends never to climb in a group, always pay good money for an experienced, accredited guide and climb one to one, a group of three as a maximum. There are numerous accidents every year in the mountains, and it is not worth taking a chance. The weather can be so unpredictable, even in summer.
Janice Carrera

· As regards climbing Mount Blanc, I would advise that your son first complete a course in Scotland this winter, for instance, and then a course in the Alps as preparation. He needs to be proficient in the use of crampons and an ice axe; walking around in crampons also needs practice. Mount Blanc is no cakewalk, despite what others might say. I should know; I have climbed it myself many times. Parts of it are very steep and some of the drops are awesome. I would suggest getting in touch with a British Mountain Guide (www.bmg.org.uk) - some are resident in France, others spend the summer season in the Alps.
Chris Ayres

· I have taken several trips to France with a French sports organisation, the Union Nationale des Centres sportifs de Plein Air (www.ucpa.com), which has sports centres all over France, including in the Chamonix valley. These centres welcome British visitors and offer full-package holidays oriented around the sport in the locality, with their own instructors and equipment. Although the accommodation isn't three-star standard, the equipment, instructors, food and atmosphere are first-class. The staff tend to speak English, but making an effort to try to speak some French will help you enjoy the whole experience.
Joseph Yeadon.

· Although climbing Mont Blanc isn't technically difficult, your son should not underestimate the debilitating effects of high altitude, and he should take time to acclimatise before he goes for the summit. He could do a course based in Chamonix, where a guide would (literally) show him and his friends the ropes on some of the smaller Alpine peaks. The guide would teach him mountaineering basics and, most importantly, crevasse rescue. At the same time he'd be acclimatising himself. You can find contact details for the host of companies offering this kind of instruction in the back of magazines like 'Trail and Climber'. He and his friends would probably be better off going with a private guide rather than one of the bigger companies. A guide should be able to take up to four people and they shouldn't have to pay much more than £120 each for three days' instruction (travel and accommodation extra). A good manual telling your son what he needs to know in terms of equipment and safe travel in the Alps is 'Alpinism' by Peter Cliff, available from Cordee. A good place to ask other climbers for advice and guidance is online at www.ukclimbing.com.
Robin Eveleigh

· Planning to do Mont Blanc before learning to climb is a bit like planning to drive a Ferrari before learning to drive. The trade routes are not technically difficult, but both of the normal routes up Mont Blanc have risks and difficulties. Via the Grand Mulets, there is a small risk of being hit by stonefall, the need to cross a crevassed area, while from the hut to the summit is a long slog. Via the Aiguille de Gouter, there is a couloir to cross, with serious stonefall to try to avoid, followed by a steep scramble to the Gouter Hut. On the day we descended after climbing this route, two people died on this scramble. The final section of the route up the Bosses Ridge needs very competent crampon skills - a slip here is probably fatal. You also need to be fit, to have spent some time high up in the Alps to get acclimatised and be able to navigate and look after yourself if the weather turns bad. In short, don't try to do it this summer. I would treat Mont Blanc as an aspiration, to be done once your son is competent in all the basic skills. Tell him to join a local climbing club or to go on a course. Visit Chamonix and explore the area - there are some great routes to be done that are much safer but still give excellent views. Even the walking is fantastic!
Mark Fitzpatrick

 

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