Address: Romaldkirk, Nr Barnard Castle, County Durham. DL12 9EB
Telephone: 01833 650 213
website: rose-and-crown.co.uk
First impression: A twisting drive through County Durham brings you to the Jane Austen-esque village of Romaldkirk, a modest collection of honey-coloured stone houses arranged around a couple of greens. The hotel itself is large, square and splendidly handsome from the outside, and cosy within. But don't let the open fires, grandfather clocks and copper and brass deceive you: the place is run with the ruthless but virtually undetectable efficiency of a covert military operation.
What are the rooms like? The 12 individually decorated rooms are large and bright with all mod cons, but have solid, dark furniture to keep you feeling countrified. Ours had a dinky, sloping-roof living room with sofa, (second) tv and stereo - particularly welcome if you have kids. The bathroom was clean, white and spacious, and came complete with piles of fluffy white towels and de rigeur Molton Brown toiletries. And you don't have to walk far down the hallway for someone to whisk in and turn your bed down.
The bed test: Medium-sized, with plenty of pillows and drapes around the head - and soft as a baby's bottom.
The restaurant: Mmmm. You can barely edge your way into the restaurant for all the awards, and the candle light and polished oak set off my pan-fried wood pigeon breast to perfection. Plenty of local produce and an excellent wine list chosen by the management.
The bar: This is the clincher. Huge, crackly open fire, lots of dark wood, and a range of real ales and whiskies. Chatty locals and bar staff who'll chuck you out only when you've slid right under the table.
What is there to do nearby? There are plenty of walks from the village if you want to leave your car behind. Otherwise, there's the nearby town of Barnard Castle for shopping, and Bowes Museum and Raby Castle for culture. High Force, the highest waterfall in England, is both high and forceful and definitely worth a visit.
How much? Dinner, bed and breakfast is £81pp for a double room and £93 for a suite on Fridays and Saturdays, and £74 and £86 respectively during the week.
