It's hard to believe that only last week I was still at work. I'm now in Zanzibar, the Spice Island. During the last five days I have seen magical sunsets, got lost in the winding streets and alleys of Stone Town, learnt a few words of Swahili, flown in a six-seater plane over the Indian Ocean and even met Christopher Biggins!
After teary farewells and some last minute bricking it, I finally left England. Thanks to several leaving parties of over excess including Soho Karaoke until 5am, I slept all the way to Dar es Salaam.
As is my habit when travelling alone, I made a friend on the flight. Jamie is 23 and at the start of a round-the-world trip. His first stop is Africa, brave boy, puts my nerves to shame. We both decided to get a flight straight to Zanzibar as soon as we landed. Whilst in the visa queue I noticed a distressed couple, one of whom was vaguely familiar. They had some visa problems, I assisted smugly before it dawned on me that this was none other than Christopher Biggins mega celeb star of... what exactly?
We managed to get a flight to Zanzibar on a six-seater plane (that's including the pilot) and were rushed on to it quicker than you could say "do you have a safety certificate for this air-fix job?"
Arrival anywhere in Africa is truly an assault on the senses but Zanzibar draws you in gently with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. There's a fair amount of random oxen on the roads, pick-up taxis with people and poultry spilling off the back but all this is matched by beautiful coastline and fantastically friendly people.
Stone Town is a maze of narrow dusty streets featuring grand wooden and brass ornamental doors, probably a little over romanticised in the guidebooks, but lovely nonetheless. The island was ruled by Sultans from Oman until 1963 and the Persian influence is still strong. The majority of the locals are Muslim and as it is currently Ramadan, most are fasting. It's rude for visitors to eat or drink in public during Ramadan so the last few lunch times have been challenging!
After only two days my favourite pastime is watching the sun set with dhows as specs on the horizon followed by a gourmet stroll through Forodhani Gardens where food stalls do a roaring trade selling delicious stuff to the post Ramadan fasting frenzy. You'll find that food is a recurring theme in my life and all this talk of fasting makes me hungry.
The people are warm and welcoming. You seldom pass someone without the customary "jambo" (hello) greeting. Swahili doesn't seem to be an easy language to pick up but nobody laughs at my efforts. I was most embarrassed when I said "tadafarty" instead of "tafadhali" for please, nothing to do with the chic peas, honest.
Today Jamie and I went to the Jozani forest where some of the last remaining Colobus monkeys swing. They were incredible, with their Cruella De Vil hairdos, jumping amazing heights. We watched them for ages and they seemed little bothered by the stares and camera action. The young ones put on a bit of a show, hanging upside down from branches eating leaves (food again, I told you). After a nature trail around the forest, we headed back to Stone Town for me to battle with internet connections and digital camera downloads; monkey and mouse, parallel universes in one day.
As for accommodation, I have a secret. To all those backpackers out there who swear by their guidebooks and wouldn't dream of booking through an intermediary, I found a gem of a travel company on t'internet called Toescapeto.com. They booked me some marvellous hotels at prices so reasonable you'd be choking on your malaria tablets.
I admit, I have succumbed to some luxury for my first week here and then, I promise, I'll suffer as much as the next cold-showering, bedbug-ridden backpacker. Until then though, let me enjoy my uninterrupted view at breakfast of the azure blue sea and let me please look forward to the golden sands and plunge pool at Matemwe Beach, my next stop.
I expected beach and not much else from Zanzibar and already I've been pleasantly surprised. So up next, a spice tour, two days luxuriating in a lovely hotel in the north of Zanzibar and then on to this hardcore travelling lark. I've managed to avoid a large African city so far but I think I'm going to be in for a shock with Dar es Salaam, rumour has it, it's nothing like Croydon.
