Why go now?
Join the crowds who throng to the Good Friday procession, traditionally led by the Pope (health permitting) from the Colosseum and up the Monte Palatino.

Where to stay
The Hotel Forum Rome (00 39 06 679 2446; www.hotelforumrome.com) is a former convent. Dine at the hotel's rooftop gardens that overlook the Roman Forum, above. Double rooms from €290. For something more chic try The Residenza A (Via Vittorio Veneto, 183; 00 39 06 488 0789), on the street of Fellini's La Dolce Vita . Rooms from €160.

Where to eat
If you fancy hanging out with some of Rome's superbronzed super trash then head for Target (Via Torino 33). For the unpretentious diner, the trattoria at Da Oio a Casa Mia (Via Galvani; 00 39 06 578 2680) has bags of old-fashioned atmosphere. Get there early or book.

The big night out
The Drunken Ship (00 39 06 6830 0535) has loud music and DJs, a change from the usual sophisticated wine bars. The Siena Art Café (Viale del Galoppatoio, 33; 00 39 06 3600 6578) is set in an open space beneath the park of Villa Borghese.

Getting there
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted and Luton. Return from £36.93. EasyJet (0871 750 0100; www.easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick, from £40.98 return.