For many British tourists, Murcia rings bells only as home to La Manga, the five-star golf and spa resort favoured by pop stars and footballers. But the region has lots more to offer: 250km of coast, beautiful beaches, a natural lagoon, a national park and many historic towns. Away from La Manga's highlife pleasures, the region can feel remote and rural, with wide, arid plains and rocky mountains.
The name Murcia derives from the Latin for mulberry, which flourished in the area and was used to nourish silkworms, which in turn fed the economy until just after the Second World War.
Murcia city, which was founded in 825AD by the Moors on the site of a Roman colony, was at its richest in the 18th century, when the silk trade was at its height. The cathedral's facade was updated during this time, and many of the grand buildings and palaces that make Murcia such an elegant town were built to house those profiting from the trade.
British Airways and Ryanair may have started direct flights but Murcia has far fewer tourists than its neighbours Andalusia and Alicante. Menus rarely carry English translations and few locals speak English. It's great if you want to practise your Spanish and can be a wonderful eye-opener. Would you have tried that tasty red pressed fish roe if you'd known what you were ordering?
A room for the night
Budget: Pensión Hispano, Calle de la Trapería 8, Murcia 00 34 968 216152
There are four Hispanos in central Murcia. This is the cheapest and provides simple, clean accommodation. Doubles from €35.
Moderate: AC Murcia, Avenida Juan Carlos 1, 30009 Murcia (00 34 968 274250, www.ac-hotels.com).
It may look like it's in the middle of a business park, but AC Murcia is a seriously trendy place to stay (we were surrounded by the cream of Spanish pop who had filmed a live TV show the night before), with sleek rooms, free snacks and booze in the bar (help yourself to coffee or whisky) and a really good Spanish breakfast of ham, cheese, fresh bread and huge fruit salads. Don't be put off by the 30-minute walk into town; you see a lot more by doing it. There is also a bus or a taxi for €6. Superbreak (01904 644455 www.superbreak.com) offers stays at the four-star AC Murcia hotel for just £35 per person, per night including breakfast. Based on two sharing and valid until 18 September.
Expensive: Hyatt La Manga and Las Lomas Village, Los Belones, Cartagena, Murcia, (00 34 968 331234, www.lamangaclub.com).
La Manga Club is about 45 minutes from the town of Murcia and is the same size as Monaco, with a fleet of taxis to ferry you between the private beach, golf courses and restaurants. Stay here for some serious luxury, but beware: various sports teams descend on the resort throughout the year and the club hosts celebrity golf tournaments. Double rooms in the main hotel from €150 a night and in Las Lomas Village Deluxe serviced rooms from €79 in low season.
The resort can be booked through Barwell Leisure (020 8786 3092, www.barwell.co.uk), who can also arrange flights and transfers.
Where to eat
Budget: Restaurante Hispano, Calle Radio Murcia, Murcia, (00 34 968 216152).
Although it looks quite smart, you can eat a three-course lunch for just €10 at the bar - which is no sacrifice given how friendly the staff are and how close that means you are to the cake cabinet. Try their grilled hake or a selection of tapas.
Moderate: La Parranda, Calle San José 1, Murcia, (00 34 968 221726).
San Juan square is full of restaurants with outside tables that don't begin to fill up until 10pm. There are two La Parrandas: this is the newer one and is tucked into the corner of the square against the old church walls. It's slightly away from the hustle but with a good view of the waiters at other restaurants running around the plaza carrying enormous platters. The wine list is heavily weighted towards local products and the food is exceptional and reasonably priced. You can order much more than two people can eat, with wine and coffee, for under €70. Try the espinacas con foie (spinach, pine nuts, crispy bacon and foie gras) for €6, brochetas de langostines for €4.50 or the house ceviche, salpicón de taberna, for €5. Check out the food on the tables next to you as well - the menu has no English translation so feel free to point at whatever takes your fancy on other people's plates.
Expensive: Rincón de Pepe, Apóstoles, 34, Murcia, (00 34 968 212239).
For Spain, this super-slick restaurant is not cheap, although it is compared with some similar British offerings. It is rightly famed throughout the country for its top-quality food - especially red mullet. For the full experience, try the menú degustación.
Where to drink
The streets around the university campus are rich with trendy little bars and some seriously dodgy-looking dives. Grab a beer at one of the many pavement cafes then head down Doctor Fleming (it is a road) to Plaza Beato Andrés Hibernón and visit Aduana Bar, a quiet glass and wood bar with pleasant staff. If you are lucky (for lucky, read female) they might give you a round of shots made from local spirits - a mixed blessing. Then head on to Zero on Andrea Baquero, a dinky little club with loud music and a rather funky clientele. If you can, pick up a flier before you go in for a reduction on your first round of drinks.
Stay active
Golf: La Manga Club (00 34 968 175000, golf@lamangaclub.com).
A round of golf here is a must for all aficionados, and you can choose from any of the three 18-hole courses at the resort. Prices start at €89 for nine holes for non-residents, and all equipment can be hired. Just remember dress codes can be strict: women must wear shoes and socks, slacks or shorts and a blouse or polo shirt - that means nothing strappy, girls. For those of us who don't take it quite seriously enough, (and don't want tan lines round the ankles), there is also miniature golf.
Tennis: (00 34 968 175000).
La Manga is also home to a world-famous tennis academy with some of the sport's best coaches, teaching all year round on clay and Astroturf courts. You can have a lesson for €55 or a week-long course with two friends for €299. For something completely different, try a game of paddle tennis - sort of a cross between squash (in that it's enclosed) and tennis (in that it's played on a similar court).
Out of town: If manicured golf courses and mown lawns aren't your thing, head back to nature at Sierra de Espuña National Park, which is about 40 minutes' drive from Murcia town. Its 250 square kilometres of highlands and pine-clad peaks are home to an impressive list of birds of prey. You can take a gentle stroll, ride a moutain bike or do a full-on hike through its wilderness. Check out the old ice houses, where snow was packed and stored for use in nearby towns until early last century. For information call the tourist office on 00 34 968 633512.
A couple of hours' drive south-west near Tabernas are the wide, arid plains where scores of spaghetti westerns like A Fistful of Dollars and The Good, the Bad and the Ugly were filmed. Today the film business has moved on, but many of the sets remain, forming the basis of three Wild West theme parks: Mini Hollywood (00 34 950 365236), Texas Hollywood (00 34 950 165458; www.texashollywood.com) and Western Leone (00 34 950 165405).
Getting there
Rebecca Seal travelled with British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com), which has flights from London Gatwick to Murcia, from £69. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies to Murcia from London Stansted.
Find out more
Lonely Planet Spain has an excellent section about Murcia, £14.99, Lonely Planet Publications.
