Address: Maesgwyn, Machynlleth, Powys

Tel: 01654 702941

Website: wynnstay-hotel.com

First impressions: The epitome of a rambling old coaching inn, the 17th-century Wynnstay is set in the heart of the colourful market town and former Welsh capital of Machynlleth and is a focal point of town life.

What are the rooms like? Rustic and cosy with exposed beams, a higgledy-piggledy collection of period furniture and uneven floors that roll like an ocean swell - especially after an evening in the bar. Each room is individually styled and furnished.

The bed test: Firm but comfortable and perfectly adequate. One room features a four-poster, in keeping with the Georgian heritage of the hotel.

The bathroom: Large and functional, with a deep bath that's perfect for a long soak after a hectic day in the local outdoors.

The restaurant: The busy but relaxed atmosphere is very much in tune with the Wynnstay's coaching inn roots. Award-winning chef Gareth Johns uses fresh local produce, organic where possible, including salmon, sea trout, beef, lamb and game.

The bar: Garrulous locals mix with visitors in an atmosphere that encourages conversation, debate and tall tales, all washed down with a fine selection of ales and Italian wines.

What is there to do nearby? World-class mountain bike trails abound; fishing and clay pigeon shooting are popular in the Dyfi valley; the town's Wednesday market dates back to medieval times; the Celtica Centre provides a well-presented history of the region's Celtic past; and the fascinating and educational Centre for Alternative Technology is just up the road.

How much? £40-£55pp per night B&B.