Colerne, Chippenham (01225 742777; www.lucknampark.co.uk)

Lucknam Park is the sort of hotel in which to entertain the fantasy of never having to leave. I still have in my mind's eye the glorious morning room filled with orchids, lilies and amaryllis, a coal fire and the deepest of armchairs. On the weekend we visited, the management had even organised a light snowfall. Through long sash windows, the estate was radiantly white.

The approach to Lucknam Park is along a dramatic avenue of limes and beeches. The house's Palladian facade is austere - the welcome one gets within the opposite. We were shown to the 'Juliet' suite which contains a four-poster so high that a cautious guest once asked if he could have a mattress on the floor beside it. Management obliged. Nothing is too much trouble for the staff - they have an amazing eye for detail. The four-posters all have tiny footstools beside them. Exertion is not an option within the hotel itself - I adored not having to pour out my tea at breakfast. But for those who wish to swim for their supper, there is a lovely pool and spa.

The name given our suite was 'Juliet' because, we belatedly realised, of its balcony. Wherefore art thou Romeo? Almost certainly settling down to dinner; Chef Hywel Jones's French cooking was magnifique (it recently earned the hotel a Michelin star) even if the charming waiters gave such a prolonged introduction to each course that one felt one should be shaking hands with, rather than eating, each dish. The risotto was especially good, with mushrooms from the Perigord; cinder-thin, like little black envelopes on the surface of the rice - it had a real kick to it. And in my dreams, the dessert 'Organic lemon, Three ways' will be served again.

The price: double rooms from £195 per night.

The verdict: the perfect retreat for a weekend of indulgence and relaxation