Spirits soaring, Susan reaches Kansas ... with its pleasing lack of mountains.
How does a calm, dignified English girl herald her entry into Kansas? Don't ask me because as soon as I crossed the state line all I could hear was some maniac yelling "up yours Appalachians; in your face Ozarks!" Then I caught my cycling skirt on the saddle as I attempted to stand in the pedals and punch the air. And that is how Lightning Bug found herself kissing the Kansas concrete much sooner than expected. Somehow I can't see that happening to Lance Armstrong.

But fear ye not, for my spirits are soaring right now! Kansas has always represented a major benchmark in this trip for me and with every single eastbound cyclist singing the praises of the Rockies and beyond, it seems the only way is up. Literally. As to state the obvious it is very, very flat here. Golden City, Missouri is about 20 miles from the state line. Ride into town on huge hills. Ride out of town for 37 miles and you won't have to turn your handlebars once.

Golden City itself is home to just about the best cycling hostel in the world, (but for the benefit of all you late twenty-something cartoon watchers, no, there wasn't a condor in flight nor any children of the sun around.) The owner Paul opened up the house for me and then left me to it, so not only was I able to do some laundry and cook a proper meal but I also got a great night's sleep in a decent bed(ie not a deflatable mattress.) Honestly people, life does become that simple.

So here I am in Pittsburgh, Kansas sitting patiently in Tailwind Cyclists with a cold-blooded assassin (his description) stood next to me holding a spanner. Roger, the owner of Tailwind, has been working on my Jamis for about four hours and has just decided that the best way for me to get a feel for Pittsburgh is to go shooting with him later. I am not in the least bit tempted, as cycling on America's roads means you see all manner of species sprawled across the tarmac (I haven't seen a live armadillo yet) and I think I've had my fill.

But interestingly, most of the area where people go fishing and hunting, indeed pretty much all of Pittsburgh and its surroundings, is actually reclaimed land. At the turn of the century it had been decimated by strip mining for coal - if anyone yells big brutus at you don't take it personally, it's actually an infamous and massive coal shovel - but has gradually been regenerated. OK, so the regenerated land is used to shoot animals but hey, it's a start.

Apparently Kansas is part of that area of the USA nicknamed "flyover country" - a place you fly over in planes but never actually go to. I've only been here a day and the wind may well change my mind, but so far I'm pretty pleased that my heap of metal keeps me on the ground. Bike's not bad either.

Oh and to everybody who emailed me with words of support after the Missouri incident - thank you! What does not destroy you ...

(Dear Lord, I'll look like the incredible hulk by the time I get to Oregon!)