A long history of imperial dynasties, invention and fine arts draws tourists, but if the idea of China itself is too daunting then visit Hong Kong, handed back in the late 90s, which still has street names in English, does not require a visa and is good for fake designer goods as well as the real thing. On the mainland the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace and Tiananmen Square are Beijing highlights.
Under communist rule since 1949, the People's Republic of China is the most populous country in the world with 1.2bn people, 93% of them Han Chinese. The world's third largest country, it also has a burgeoning economy thanks to increasingly free-market policies and its 700-million-strong labour force. Much Chinese wildlife is endangered or extinct due to overgrazing, urbanisation and industrial pollution.
The 22 provinces and five "autonomous regions" are governed from Beijing, which imposes its language and timezone on the whole country. Hong Kong and Macau, handed back by European powers in the late 1990s, are now Special Administrative Regions with some autonomy.
More than 28 million tourists visit China each year, drawn by its rich history of imperial dynasties, invention and fine arts. Attractions include the Terracotta Army in Xi'an, stunning scenery at Guilin, throbbing Hong Kong and seductive Shanghai. The highlights of the capital Beijing include the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, Mao Zedong's mausoleum and nearby stretches of the Great Wall. China's annexation of Tibet remains a contentious human rights issue, and tensions with Taiwan persist over its claim to the country.
Best sites
· China The Beautiful Listen to opera, view paintings and calligraphy, or read about history.
· Chinese Embassy Travel guide with good background info, a dos and don'ts section, and coverage of 25 cities.
· PM Geiser's personal internet guide.
· Travel.com Hong Kong Good resources and rundown of the main sights.
· ChinaVista Take a virtual tour of Beijing's Forbidden City.
· The CIA World Factbook
· The Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things
Explore lively Shanghai, see the imperial and communist icons of Beijing, take a boat trip or cycle around the beautiful limestone peaks surrounding Yangshuo in the south.
News and current affairs
Online Chinese publications from the world news guide.
Language
Mandarin – Putonghua - is the official language; hundreds of regional dialects are spoken. Cantonese is the main language in Hong Kong and the surrounding area. In big cities you may find an English speaker but in the countryside this is rare. Outside the main cities, virtually no street signs are in English, so finding your way can be difficult. A phrasebook with Chinese script is essential.
Climate
The climate range is extreme, from freezing winters to scorching summers, particularly on the northern plains. The tropical and subtropical zones of Southern China have long, humid, rainy summers (April-September), with typhoons along the coast from July. In the north, winters can be as cold as -40C (-40F), summers as hot as 38C (100F). The interior is more temperate but temperatures can be unpredictable.
Health
Immunisation is recommended against hepatitis A and B, Japanese encephalitis, polio, rabies and typhoid. Although cholera is a threat, vaccines are now thought to be ineffective. No vaccine is available for dengue fever, a mosquito-borne disease common in east Asia; protect against it, and malaria, by wearing long, loose garments and using insect repellent on all exposed skin. Anti-malarial drugs should be taken if visiting rural areas.
Food
Chinese cuisine is built around a staple of rice, noodles or bread, accompanied by soups, meats and vegetables spiced and cooked to traditional recipes. Beijing is home to intricate imperial cuisine; Sichuan cooking, from the mountainous west, is hot and spicy; Shanghai cuisine is big on seafood and spare ribs. Use is made of anything and everything, including insects; Cantonese cooking, from Guangdong province, is known for ingredients such as snake, cat and hedgehog. Vegetarians will have a difficult time as dishes are often served with meat sauces. Tea is the most common non-alcoholic beverage and its consumption is bound in ritual; it is usually served free of charge with a meal.
Currency
£1 buys approx. 15 Chinese yuan renminbi (CNY).
Events
Early February: Chinese New Year: three to nine days of festivity culminate in colourful lion and dragon dances and the Lantern Festival during which thousands of red lanterns strew the streets.
June: Hong Kong: Dragon Boat Festival; beautifully carved and decorated canoes race in the harbour to the sound of drums, while spectators feast on dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves.
October 1: National Day; this holiday actually lasts a week during which around 30% of the country go away. Enormous balloons and lavish flower displays decorate town centres and dignitaries parade through the main streets.
• More details at What's on when.
What to buy
Silks are cheaper and likely to be of better quality in mainland China than in Hong Kong. Scrolls, fans and calligraphy: choose between typical Chinese scenes, your name in Chinese script or lucky symbols. A musical Mao cigarette lighter from a tout in Tianaman Square might be the right gift for someone with a penchant for kitsch. Stanley Market is still the best place for shopping for local items in Hong Kong.
Embassies and visas
UK: Chinese Embassy 49-51 Portland Place, London W1B 4JL (020 7299 4049). Visa & consular section, 31 Portland Place, London W1B 1QD (020 7631 1430; 09001 880808 for 24hr answering service).
China: British Embassy, 11 Guang Hua Lu, Jian Guo Men Wai, Beijing 100600 (+86 10 6532 1961). Consulates in Shanghai, Guangzhou, Chongquing, Macau . Also in Hong Kong.
Visa requirements: All foreigners entering mainland China need a visa. Standard tourist visas cost £30 (£20 for non-British citizens), are valid for three months and take around three working days to process. Travel documents including a return airline ticket, hotel booking and itinerary in China, are required. Passports must be valid for at least 6 months on entry. British citizens visiting Hong Kong do not need a visa for stays of up to six months. Visits to Tibet and other restricted areas require special approval.
Time zone
GMT +8 (Beijing time applies throughout).
Getting there
International airports at Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Kunming, Shanghai, Tianjin and Xi'an, among others; most UK flights land at Hong Kong or Beijing. The national carrier is Air China (020 7744 0800). Hong Kong is serviced by Cathay Pacific (020 8834 8888). International rail links to Beijing from Ulan Bator in Mongolia, Moscow in Russia, Pyongyang in North Korea. Ferries to Shanghai from the Japanese cities of Kobe, Osaka and Yokohama, and from Korea.
Related literature
Soul Mountain, Gao Xingjian By the winner of the Nobel prize for literature 2000 (see Observer interview ).
Wild Swans, Jung Chang The story of 20th century China through the lives of three generations of Chinese women, by an author who grew up during the Cultural Revolution.
Grass Soup, Hsien-Liang Chang Chinese novelist's account of the 22 years he spent in prisons, labour camps and state farms.
