Wedged between Columbia and Peru, Ecuador packs astounding geographical and cultural diversity into a surprisingly compact area, making it a tempting destination even for a short break.

Formerly part of the Inca empire, and later colonised by Spain, Ecuador has a rich history and a vibrant indigenous culture derived from the convergence of the various customs and language of the country's many ethnic groups. Religion is predominantly Roman Catholic and Spanish is the official language, although most Indians use it as secondary to their own.

Head for Quito, a capital city surrounded by snowcapped volcanic peaks: from here you can reach almost anywhere in a day. Go east to El Oriente to explore the dense, virgin rainforest of the upper Amazon basin, or take a spectacular roof-top ride on the Ibarra-San Lorenzo railway - a converted school bus - from the highlands down to the coast, where the steamy plains are rich with banana groves and cacao, coffee and sugar plantations. Alternatively, if you want to get away from the heat, you can go hiking high up in the Andes. If you've got a bit of extra cash to spare - and you can hardly come all this way and miss out - take a flight or boat to the Galapagos Islands (part of Ecuador since 1832). The barren, volcanic archipelago, famous for its impact on Darwin's theories of evolution, is an ecological paradise inhabited by giant tortoises and turtles, although a recent oilspill threatened to disrupt its delicate ecosystem.

The current political climate is unstable due to the declaration of a state of emergency, prohibiting demonstrations against the government's pro-IMF stance, in January 2000. This was quickly followed by the hugely unpopular replacement of Ecuador's currency, the sucre, with the US dollar, at a crippling rate of 25,000 sucres per dollar. Travellers may therefore encounter road blockades across the country, and it is advisable to check the latest foreign office recommendations before you go.

Language

Spanish is the official language, but most highland Indians are bilingual, preferring to speak Quechua. You may also encounter other indigenous languages. English is understood within the hotel and airport circuit, but should not be relied upon elsewhere.

Climate

Subtropical. Weather varies substantially within the country due to the Andes mountain range and coastal variations, which means that any time of year is good to visit. Andean regions are cooler and it is especially cold at nights in the mountains. Rainfall is high in coastal and jungle areas.

Health

Dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, typhoid and cholera are all present, as is a minor risk of rabies and diptheria. If you plan on going to the rainforests, it is advisable to get a yellow fever vaccination as well.

Food

Plenty of soups and stews with corn pancakes, rice, eggs and vegetables. The seafood is particularly impressive, even up in the highlands. Local specialities include caldo de pates - soup made from cattle hooves; cuy, whole roasted guinea pig; and llapingachos - pancakes stuffed with mashed potato and cheese. The best local drink is paico, made from freshly squeezed lemon.

Events

Spring Pre-Easter carnival, involving celebrations and parades - and water fights. June Corpus Christi celebrations combine with traditional harvest fiestas in most highland towns. November 2 All Soul's Day - colourful flower-laying ceremonies take place in the country's cemeteries.

What to buy

Wool and cotton sweaters, shawls, tapestries and leather goods. Of particlular interest are the brightly painted balsa-wood birds which are made in the Amazon region, and cedar statues which come from highland villages.

Embassies and visas

Ecuador: British Embassy, Pis 14, Edificio Citiplaza, Avenida Naciones Unidas y República de El Salvador, PO Box 17 -17 -830, Quito. (+ 593 2) 970 800 / 970 801 (tel), (+ 593 2) 970 809 (fax).
Netherlands: Embassy of Ecuador, Koninginnegracht 84, 2541 AJ The Hague. (+31 0) 70 - 3463753 (tel).
Sweden: The Embassy of Ecuador, Engelbrektsgatan 13, Box 260 95, Stockholm. (+46-8) 679 60 43/60 70 (tel), (+46-8) 611 55 93 (fax). Email suecia@embajada-ecuador.se
Visa requirements: Citizens of most countries can stay a maximum of 90 days per annum without requiring a visa.

Currency

Ecuador uses US$. £1.00 buys appox 1.4 US$

Timezone

GMT - 5 (Galapagos Islands: GMT - 6).

Getting there

The most common way of getting to Ecuador is by air. The main international airports are Quito and Guayaquil. Nearly all flights from Europe and Australasia go via the US or the Caribbean. American Airlines operate daily flights from Heathrow to Guayaquil, via Miami. Some airlines fly direct from Central and South American countries. It might be cheapest to fly to Lima and then go overland to Ecuador.

Ecuador's national airlines are SAETA (EH), SAN (WB) and TAME (EQ). Ecuatoriana (EU) connects Ecuador with the USA and some South American countries. There is a US$25 airport departure tax.Overland travel using public buses from both Colombia and Peru is fairly straightforward.

Related literature

The Conquest of the Incas, John Hemmingway: A history of the Spanish conquest.

The Panama Hat Trail, Tom Miller: A picture of Ecuador, as seen through the eyes of a westerner.

Galapagos, Kurt Vonnegut: Sci-fi based on human evolution taking place on the islands.