Central America's westernmost country, Guatemala is rich in history both ancient and modern, containing some of the most impressive ancient Mayan architecture and beautiful old Spanish colonial towns in the region. It has suffered from a succession of coups and the ravages of a decades-long civil war, which finished officially only in 1996. Now hopefully more stable, the government is aiming to repair the damage done.
The capital, Guatemala city, home to a quarter of the country's 12.6m population, is a sprawling metropolis with few attractions that other parts of the country can't better. The former capital, Antigua, has much more charm; it is a nice place in which to wander during the day or go out at night.
Guatemala's countryside is beautiful and unpredictable with large numbers of volcanoes; fascinating to climb, some are also active. In addition, it suffers from earthquakes, so it is worth contacting the relevant embassy to check where and when it's safe to visit. Besides natural disasters, some violent attacks against tourists have occurred in recent years.
News and current affairs
Guatemala's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
Spanish is the main language; Garifuna, spoken mainly by black Guatemalans, and numerous Mayan languages are also spoken. English is spoken a little in cities and tourist areas.
Health
Inoculations against cholera and dengue fever are necessary. Protection against malaria is recommended when travelling in high regions.
Climate
Hot and humid most of the year round, the dry season is between December and April. Average temperature on the Pacific coast is around 38C (100F). It can get cold in the highlands at night, but is still warm during the daytime.
Food
Not a strong point: very meat-based, mainly chicken and beef. Mexican dishes are readily available and a surprising number of Chinese restaurants exist in the larger towns. Seafood is not massively popular, so vegetarians may have to fall back on the old favourites of rice, beans and eggs. The beer is not bad at all and the coffee, although the best of it is exported, is marvellous.
Events
March to April: Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter) sees colourful Catholic processions in most towns and villages.
July 21 to 26: Coban: Rabin Ajau, a Kekchi Indian festival.
September 15: Guatemalans celebrate their independence from Spain, gained in 1821, with loud music and parades.
What to buy
Beautifully coloured woven scarves, throws and clothes - especially from local markets. Pottery and ceramics: bowls, plates or replica Mayan models. Jewellery - in particular jade, which is found locally and comes in an emerald hue.
Embassies and visas
UK: Embassy of Guatemala, 13 Fawcett Street, London SW10 9HN (020 7349 0346 or 7351 3042).
Guatemala: British Embassy, Edificio Centro Financiero (7th floor) Tower Two, 7a Avenida 5-10 Zona 4, Guatemala (502 2 321601/2/4/6).
Visa requirements: At present no visa is needed for visits of up to 60 days, although it is advisable to check with the Embassy in advance of visiting in case this situation changes.
Currency
£1 buys approx. 11.4 Guatemala quetzales (GTQ). US dollars are easy to exchange. Traveller's cheques (Thomas Cook are more acceptable than Amex) can be changed in cities, often for a better rate than cash. Credit cards accepted, but with a hefty surcharge.
Timezone
GMT -6.
Getting there
Several airlines - American Airlines, Continental Airlines, Virgin Atlantic, Iberia, and British Airways - fly to Guatemala City and/or Flores International airports, with stops at New York, Dallas, Houston or Mexico city. You can also contact the Guatemala Tourist Board at the Embassy of Guatemala (020 7349 0346 or 7351 3042).
Related literature
The Mirror of Lida Sal, Miguel Angel Asturias: Tales based on Mayan myths and Guatemalan legends by local winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature who also wrote The President.
Clamour and Innocence (eds. Barbara Paschke and David Volpendesta): Short stories from Central America.
I Rigoberta Menchu, Rigoberta Menchu: The autobiography of another Nobel Prize winner (this time for peace) from Guatemala.
