Iran is not the first place you'd think of coming to for a holiday. Certainly not if you want a suntan - covering up is essential - or if you're up for the beers - alcohol is strictly prohibited. But for the culturally hungry it is a feast of ancient cities, elegant buildings, mosques and mausoleums. And when you've had enough of those, you can flee to the forests or the deserts, for trekking, rock-climbing or - most fashionable among wealthy Iranians these days - skiing.
Iran occupies an area about a fifth of the size of the USA and includes three mountain ranges and two deserts. It suffers from numerous earthquakes and occupies a politically precarious position with neighbours including Afghanistan and Iraq.
Formerly known as Persia, the Islamic Republic of Iran was ruled by a succession of shahs until the Ayatollah Khomeini gained power in the revolution of 1979. Mohammed Khatami, a moderately liberal Muslim cleric, is the current president and Islam is the official religion. The population currently stands at 66 million and 12 million people live in the capital, Tehran. This is a friendly city with excellent museums, but it is not a beauty spot. It has expanded rapidly and haphazardly in the last century and is now polluted, overcrowded and easy to get lost in.
News and current affairs
Iran's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
Persian (Farsi) is the official language. Other main regional languages are Azari, Kurdish, Arabic and Lori.
Climate
Iran is dry and hot in summer and harsh in winter. It experiences a low annual rainfall except in the far north and west. Best times to visit are mid-April to early June, and late September to early November.
Health
Malaria is present; consider taking antimalarial medicines. Food and beverage precautions are recommended to avoid diarrhoea. Cholera and schistosomiasis should also be guarded against. Be prepared for altitude sickness in the mountains. Wear sun protection.
Food
Rice is the order of the day, which can become a little trying, especially if you are on a budget. However, if you can afford to eat in the upmarket restaurants or even get invited to an Iranian home then the food is outstanding.
Favourite dishes include: chelo khoresh, rice with meat and vegetables in a nutty sauce; polo chirin, a sweet-sour saffron rice flavoured with raisins, almonds and orange; kofte, minced meat meatballs; and dolmeh, stuffed aubergine, courgettes or peppers.
Tea or chay is the preferred local beverage, served hot, strong and black, and enjoyed in one of the many ghahve khane or teahouses. There are also an impressive variety of fruit juices, milkshakes and yoghurt drinks. All alcohol is strictly forbidden.
What to buy
Vigorous haggling in the bazaars is part of the fun. Best buys are carpets, rugs, silks, leather goods, woodwork, gold, silver, glass and ceramics.
Events
It is important to find out when the religious holidays are as everything closes. They do not follow the western calendar so may fall on slightly different days each year.
The biggest events include: Ramazan, the month of dawn to dusk fasting; Eid-é Fetr, a one day feast that marks the end of Ramadan; Ghadir-é Khom, commemorating the day that the Prophet Mohammed appointed Emam Ali his successor; and the birthday of Mohammed.
National holidays follow the Persian solar calendar:
February 11: Magnificent Victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran, which marks the anniversary of Khomeini coming to power in 1979;
March 21 - 24: Iranian New Year or No Ruse
June 4: Heart-Rending Departure of the Great Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran, an emotional commemoration of the death of Khomeini in 1989.
Embassies and visas
UK: Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran, 16 Prince's Gate, London SW7 1PT.
Tel: (020) 7225 3000. Fax: (020) 7589 4440
Email: info@iran-embassy.org.uk
Website: www.iran-embassy.org.uk.
Mon-Fri 0900-1700
For visa applications: Iranian Consulate, 50 Kensington Court, Kensington High Street, London W8 5DB.
Tel: (020) 7937 5225 or 7361 0823 or (0906) 802 0222
Mon-Thurs 0900-1300; Fri 0900-1230.
Iran: British Embassy,198 Ferdowsi Avenue, Tehran 11344, Iran
Postal address: PO Box 11365-4474, Tehran 11344, Iran
Tel: (21) 670 5011. Fax: (21) 670 8021 (commercial section) or 670 0720 (visa section).
Email: britemb@neda.net
Visa requirements: Everyone needs a visa to visit Iran except nationals of Bahrain, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Macedonia, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and United Arab Emirates. Nationals of Israel will be refused entry under all circumstances.
It is best to apply for a visa, valid for three months, before leaving home. Once you are there, it is relatively straightforward to get an extension. A Tourist visa costs £43 (single-entry); £50 (multiple-entry); Business: £58; Transit: £36.
Currency
£1 buys approx. 2502 Iranian Rial (IR)
Timezone
GMT +3.5
Getting there
Iran's national airline, Iran Air (IR), operates direct flights between Tehran and London as does British Mediterranean. Other airlines serving Iran include KLM, Lufthansa and Swissair.
It's possible to travel overland into Iran from Turkey and if you are particularly intrepid, you can enter via the former Soviet states of Azerbaijan, Armenia and Turkmenistan. The border with Afghanistan is currently closed and independent travellers are not allowed to cross into Iraq from Iran. It is inadvisable cross overland between Iran and Pakistan, due to the current situation in Afghanistan. If you decide to bring a car, be prepared for hefty queues at border crossings.
You can get ferries from Sharjah and Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Bahrain, Kuwait and Qatar to Iran. It is also possible to cross the Caspian Sea on a cargo boat between the Azerbaijan capital of Baku and Bandar-é Anzali. It is always wise to check current international events in the Middle East before arranging your holiday.
Related literature
Honeymoon in Purdah, Alison Wearing: A warm and humorous account of her journey through Iran.
The Valleys of the Assassins, Freya Stark: The intrepid journey of a single woman through Persia in the early twentieth century.
The Road to Oxiana, Robert Byron: The diary of a slow passage from England to Afghanistan.
Danziger's Travels: Beyond Forbidden Frontiers, Nick Danziger
The Iran-Iraq War, Efraim Karsh: Examines one of the longest, bloodiest and costliest third world armed conflicts in the 20th century.
