Sitting astride the equator, Kenya is the hub of east Africa. But as well as attracting 700,000 foreign visitors a year, the country is struggling with its own problems. Development is hampered by violence and corruption, the capital, Nairobi, is notorious for muggings, and safety at night is a concern. Travellers also need to be aware that HIV is rife and they need to take precautions against malaria.
Extreme poverty in some areas has led to deteriorating social systems: hundreds die each year from drinking cheap illicit alcohol and almost a third of the population suffers from tuberculosis. Kenya also endures water pollution from urban and industrial waste, water degradation from pesticides and fertilizers and deforestation. Animal poaching is a serious concern.
Perhaps the main attraction is safari: the country's national parks and wildlife reserves sport a wealth of species, including lions, elephants, rhinos, cheetahs, giraffes and zebras. A major drawcard is the annual migration of millions of wildebeest. Apart from safaris, the country also offers beaches, coral reefs, mountains and ancient African cities, such as the port of Mombasa and relaxed Lamu.
Best sites
· MagicalKenya.com. Official destination site.
· Kenya's Parks. National parks and reserves.
· Bwana Zulia's Kenya Travel Guide. Online travel guide with Swahili lessons, travel tips and photos.
· Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things ...
Go on a wildlife safari, see the port of Mombasa, and connect with history in Lamu, Kenya's oldest city.
News and current affairs
Kenya's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
English, Swahili, various dialects. English is taught in schools, but some basic knowledge of Swahili is useful off-the-beaten-track.
Climate
Kenya's climate is tropical, with hot and humid conditions on the coast and more moderate temperatures inland. The north is very dry. There are two rainy seasons, the short rains from October to December and the long rains from April to June. Mombasa, mean temp 30C (86F), is generally a fair bit hotter than Nairobi, at around 25C (77F).
Health
Vaccination against yellow fever is recommended if travelling outside urban areas. Malaria is present; consider taking anti-malarial medicines. Mosquitoes also transmit dengue fever but there is no vaccine; protect against them with insect repellent and by wearing long, loose clothing. Immunisation against hepatitis A is recommended; food and beverage precautions are essential to avoid stomach upset. Hepatitis B, rabies and typhoid vaccines may be appropriate, depending on your itinerary and length of stay. Polio, TB, measles and tetanus-diptheria vaccines should be up-to-date. Swimming in freshwater lakes and streams could be dangerous due to presence of disease-causing organisms.
Food
Not a cuisine for gourmets or vegetarians, Kenyan food is based around bean or meat sauces served with stodgy starchy fillers; cheap but filling survival food. Barbecued goat is a popular dish. Beer is available in abundance, but beware the sometimes lethal illicit brews sold in extremely poor districts.
What to buy
African artefacts, carvings, beaded, woven or printed fabric and clothing.
Events
February Kenya Safari Rally; third round of the World Rally Championships. October 20 Kenyatta Day. November Mombasa Carnival. December 12 Independence Day.
Embassies and visas
UK: Kenyan Embassy, 45 Portland Place, London W1N 4AS (Tel: 020 7636 2371/5).
Kenya: British Embassy, Upper Hill Road, Nairobi, PO Box 30465; consular department PO Box 48543 (Tel: 00 254 2 714699).
Visa requirements: UK visitors require a visa.
Currency
£1 buys about 136 Kenyan shillings (KES).
Timezone
GMT +3.
Getting there
Jomo Kenyatta airport in Nairobi is the principal arrival point for flights from Europe and East Africa, although it is possible to land at Mombasa. Buses and the occasional train travel to Tanzania, as do ferries from Mombasa. You can also take a ferry to Zanzibar from Mombasa.
Related literature
Out of Africa, Isak Dinesen: Memoir of the heroine Karen Blixen's seventeen years on a pioneer coffee farm in Kenya
Going Down River Road, Meja Mwangi: Powerful and gritty story of a Kenyan day labourer's drinking, womanising, friendships, and troubles at work.
Petals of Blood, Ngugi Wa Thiongo: A novel about corruption and disillusionment in independent Kenya.