While Costa Rica continues to revel in its growing tourist base, Panama has learned from its neighbour's mistakes. The result: more land set aside for preservation (only a quarter of the country is inhabited anyway), more wildlife and, for now, fewer tourists.

Panama is a curved isthmus linking Costa Rica and Colombia and so, effectively, north America with south. At its narrowest it is just 50km wide, but it has 1000km-long Caribbean and Pacific coastlines which provide some of Central America's best diving, and are linked by the historically contentious Panama Canal, begun in 1904 and first navigated 10 years later.

Panama's history is one of colonial rule and immigration, creating an exotic cultural mix. The Spanish arrived in the 16th century; by the 18th century, the gains from the country's pillaging of Peru had attracted the bands of pirates which established Panama's dangerous reputation. In 1821 it became a province of Colombia, and remained so until a revolutionary junta with hefty US financial backing declared Panama independent in 1903.

In return, the US was granted generous terms in the canal treaty, entitling it to control of the land on both sides of the canal and a right of intervention in Panamanian affairs. Predictably this led to years of tension between the countries: arguments rumbled on until Panama finally gained control of the canal in 1999.

News and current affairs

Panama's online publications from the world news guide.

Language

Spanish is the official language, but English is widely spoken.

Health

Vaccinations against rabies and yellow fever are recommended. Dengue fever, hantavirus (in the Los Santos province) and malaria are also present: take necessary precautions.

Climate

Hot all the year round, though cooler at high altitudes. Rainy season is from May to November.

Food

A mouth-watering fusion of French, Spanish and American food, with a huge array of restaurants to choose from. Some specialities not to be overlooked include ceviche, a fish dish marinated in lime juice, onions and peppers; patacones de plátano or fried plantain; tamales, a tasty pie wrapped in banana leaves; and carimanolas and empanadas, turnovers filled with meat or cheese. Wines and spirits are widely available in hotels and restaurants.

Events

February:
The Carnaval is a four-day celebration preceding Ash Wednesday, with much music and dancing. Best places to see it are Panama City and Las Tablas.
March/April: Just as impressive are the festivities during Semana Santa (Easter week) at Villa de Los Santos, on the Península de Azuero.
July: Boat races from Taboga Island. October: The Festival of the Black Christ, when a life-sized Black Christ is paraded at Portobelo.

What to buy

Excellent for stocking up on duty-free luxury products from all over the world. Good buys include patterned beaded necklaces made by Guaymí Indians, leather, ceramics, mahogany bowls, macramé and carved wood.

Embassies and visas

UK: Embassy of the Republic of Panama, 40 Hertford Street, London, W1J 7SH (020 7493 4646, fax 020 7493 4333, email emb.pan@lineone.net).
Panama: British Embassy, Calle 53, Urbanización Marbella, Swiss Tower, Fourth floor, PO Box 889, Panama 1, Republic of Panama (507 269 0866, fax 507 223 0730, email britemb@cwpanama.net)
Visa requirements: Visas are not required by UK nationals or many others, but it is advisable to check with the embassy for current details.

Currency

£1 buys approx. 1.43 Balboa (B).

Timezone

GMT -5.

Getting there

COPA is the national airline, serving destinations throughout central, North and South America, with Miami as the main hub. Flight time from London is 14 hrs. There is a US$20 departure tax on international flights, which must be paid in cash. The principal overland route is via the Pan-American Highway from Costa Rica to Panama City. It is unsafe to cross into Colombia via the Darién Gap. There is a frequent passage of cruise liners passing through the Panama Canal from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Related literature

Path Between the Seas, David McCullough
The creation of the Panama Canal, 1914-1970.
Adventures in Nature Panama, William and Bill Friar
Tekkin' a Waalk, Peter Ford
Includes a stroll along Panama's Caribbean coast.
When New Flowers Bloomed, ed. Enrique Jaramillo Levi
Short stories by women writers from Costa Rica and Panama.
The Panama Hat Trail, Tom Miller