The long-lasting civil conflict in Sri Lanka has hit tourism hard - and the Foreign Office now advises against all travel to more than one-third of the island.
The Portuguese, Dutch and British all had a colonial hand in the country's history and Tamil labourers were imported to work the tea, coconut and rubber plantations, sowing the seeds of today's problems.
Of Sri Lanka's 20 million people, almost 75% are Sinhalese, and the rest are Tamils and Moors; for more than 20 years, fighting between the Sinhalese and the Tamils has shattered the tranquillity of the island.
Attractions include the picturesque hill town of Kandy, the Sigiriya rock fortress and the Dutch colonial relics of Galle. National parks, old hill stations and beaches also draw visitors. Continuing rebel activity makes northern and eastern Sri Lanka unsafe for travel and in recent years sporadic violence has occurred in Colombo; check with your embassy before travelling.
In September 2006, the Foreign Office advised against all travel to an area north of the A12 road – on which stands the ancient city of Anuradhapura – as well as the east of the island. Tamil attacks have also been seen in Galle, though the military was targeted rather than tourists.
Best sites
· Sri Lanka Tourism The official site of the Sri Lanka Tourist Board.
· Lanka Web Catch up with local events with Lanka Web News.
· CIA World Factbook
· Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things
Relax in Kandy, climb to the top of Sigiriya rock fortress and see wild elephants in Udawalawe National Park.
News and current affairs
Sri Lankan online publications from the world news guide.
Tsunami
The country was badly hit by the Indian Ocean tsunami on December 26 2004, with severe damage and some 30,000 deaths. Eastern, southern and south-western coastal areas suffered most, but reconstruction is well under way.
Climate
Sri Lanka's tropical climate is punctuated by two monsoon seasons - one from May to August, which affects the south and west, and another between October and January, which hits the north and east. Temperatures along the coast are high all year, averaging 22-30C (72-86F), but it can get cool in the hills, especially at night. Sri Lanka's humidity is very high, sometimes reaching 95%.
Health
Vaccination may be needed against Japanese encephalitis, hepatitis A, typhoid, hepatitis B and rabies. Malaria and dengue fever are present; consider taking anti-malarial medication and protect against mosquito bites. Routine immunisations for tetanus, diptheria, polio and measles should be up to date.
Food
A red-hot curry made with chilli, coconut, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon, and served with rice, is the typical Sri Lankan meal. Curries are made with either vegetables, meat or fish. Indian-style dishes are also common and Chinese, Malay and western-style food is available in main centres. A hopper is a cross between a muffin and a crumpet, typically served with a soft-cooked egg on top. Sri Lankan tea is renowned the world over; other drinks include toddy, made from palm tree sap, arrack, a fermented (thus alcoholic) version of toddy, and beer.
Events
January Colombo: Duruthu Perahera; procession marking Buddha's first visit to Sri Lanka. February 4 Colombo: Independence Day; huge parade. July Kataragama: Buddhist festival in southern jungles, culminating in spectacular performances such as fire walking. July-August Kandy Perahera: 10-day Hindu pageant with parades, acrobats, decorated elephants and feats of the flesh.
What to buy
Tea, spices, fabric (batiks, silk, lace), gems, ceramics, silver jewellery, traditional masks.
Embassies and visas
UK: Sri Lankan High Commission 13 Hyde Park Gardens, London (020 7262 1841)
Sri Lanka: British High Commission 190 Galle Road, Kollupitiya (PO Box 1433), Colombo 3. (+94 1 437336-43)
Visa requirements: UK, US and most European nationals do not require visas to visit Sri Lanka for up to 30 days.
Currency
£1 buys approx. 188 Sri Lankan rupee (LKR).
Timezone
GMT +6.
Getting there
The only way to reach Sri Lanka is by an international flight to the capital, Colombo. The national carrier is Sri Lankan Airlines (formerly Air Lanka, 020 8538 2001).
Related literature
Running in the Family and Anil's Ghost, both by Michael Ondaatje.
