The only south-east Asian country that has never been colonised by a European power, Thailand is a fascinating blend of the ancient and the hyper-modern. Nowhere is this more evident than the capital Bangkok, where saffron-robed monks walk barefoot past glistening skyscrapers, and ornate temples are tucked away beside eight-lane highways.
Most travellers escape the chaos of the capital for the temples, ancient cities and ruins, lush green fields, fishing villages and resorts of the back country. Attractions include hiking, trekking and hilltribe life in Chiang Mai, the ancient city of Ayuthaya, and the laidback beaches and tropical islands of the south.
The population of 61m is 95% Buddhist. With more than 8.6m visitors a year, the negative impact of tourism - from the dilution of hilltribe culture in Chiang Mai to the pollution and environmental damage caused by resorts - is much discussed in Thailand. Other environmental concerns are the logging of old-growth forests, severe air pollution from vehicle emissions and illegal hunting. Some border areas are dangerous to visit; check with your embassy.
Best sites
· Tourism Authority of Thailand. Official tourist board site catering to the UK and Ireland.
· Thai food. Learn about the ingredients and cooking methods of Thai cuisine.
· Welcome to Chang Mai-Chang Rai. Get the lowdown on Thailand's north from the online Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai magazine.
· Thailand Environment Institute. A non-profit organisation providing information on key environmental projects around Thailand. Essential for the eco-conscious tourist.
· Dreaded Ned. Comprehensive and entertaining guide to the gay scene in Thailand.
· Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things ...
Shop, bop and temple-hop in Bangkok, see hilltribe life in Chiang Mai, relax at any of the spectacular beaches.
News and current affairs
Thailand's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
Thai. English is widely spoken in Bangkok and other tourist areas. A phrasebook may be useful in remote areas.
Climate
Thailand is hot and humid throughout the year and there are three seasons: the cool season November to February; the hot season March to May; and the rainy season June to October, though it usually doesn't rain for long. Average temperatures are around 85F, ranging in Bangkok from 62F in April to 95F in December. In the cool season humidity is lower and the nights can be cool.
Health
Vaccinations are recommended for hepatitis A, typhoid and hepatitis B, as well as Japanese encephalitis and rabies if travelling to remote areas. Tetanus/diphtheria, polio and measles inoculations should be up to date. Malaria is a risk and anti-malarial medication should be considered. Dengue fever is present; protect against mosquito bites.
Food
Thai cuisine is based on a staple of rice, served with spicy curries or intensely flavoursome soups. Lemongrass, galangal, coconut milk, ginger, chilli, lime juice, shrimp paste and basil are used to create complex sauces. Rice noodle dishes, such as phad Thai, are less spicy and feature egg and crushed peanuts. Thai salads are also excellent. Thailand's Buddhist heritage means many vegetarian dishes are available, as well as those with beef, pork, chicken and seafood. Desserts are often based around banana, coconut and rice.
Currency
£1 buys approx 69 Thai baht (THB).
Events
February, Chiang Mai: flower festival.
April, Songkran: water festival, when passers-by get drenched in the festivities across the country.
May, Visakha Puja: holiest day in Buddhist calendar.
September/October, Phuket: Ngan Kin Jeh, the vegetarian festival; witness bizarre acts such as people piercing their cheeks with metal rods.
October, Chonburi: buffalo races.
November 18-19, Surin: elephant round-up. Parades and tricks with elephants.
November 26, Lopburi: monkey banquet; watch the primates feast in Khmer ruins.
December, Chiang Mai: food festival.
December 3, Bangkok: trooping of the colours. Parades and events to honour the king and queen.
What to buy
Textiles, gems, silk, tailor-made clothing, nielloware, lacquerware, ceramics, pewter, hilltribe crafts, rattan and wooden furniture (although check that it is not tropical hardwood, especially if you are attempting to be an eco-friendly tourist).
Embassies and visas
UK: The Royal Thai Embassy, 29-30 Queen's Gate, London SW7 5JB (020 7589 2944; consular section extension 7492)
Thailand: British Embassy, 14 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 (+66 2 305 8333). Honorary consulate in Chiang Mai; 198 Bumrungraj Road, Muang, Chiang Mai (+66 53 26 3015)
Visa requirements: Citizens of the UK, US and most European countries can visit Thailand visa-free for up to 30 days.
Time zone
GMT +7.
Getting there
International flights land at Bangkok, from where there are links to several other Thai cities including Chiang Mai in the north. The national carrier is Thai Airways (0870 6060911). Overland travel is possible from Malaysia, Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar (Burma). While the route to/from Malaysia is popular, few travel overland to the other countries. Check the security situation along the border with your embassy before you head off.
Related literature
The Lioness in Bloom, Susan Fulop Kepner (ed). A collection of modern Thai fiction about women.
Rushing to Paradise, JG Ballard. A motley crew of eco-activists take over a remote island with the aim of saving its wildlife; but it is not long before their utopian dreams turn to classic Ballardian dystopia.
The Beach, Alex Garland. The British travel novel of the 1990s, turned into an expensive movie starring Leonardo di Caprio.
