The country

Warsaw has been reconstructed to its pre-war splendour and other towns are being beautifully restored following the ending of Soviet influence, which came hot on the heels of the terrible Nazi occupation. There are now many colourful market places, and the countryside remains pretty but poor.

Poland certainly has a troubled past. A leading European power in the 16th century, it was shortly after divided between Russia, Austria and Prussia. It regained independence in 1918 only to disappear from the map, gobbled up by Hitler and Stalin. Under Nazi occupation, three million Poles and three million Polish Jews were murdered and the capital was razed to the ground.

Warsaw is home to two million people. Its centre was painstakingly restored after the second world war but overall it has a communist feel due to the mass of post-war buildings and Stalin's domineering Palace of Culture. Plenty of other towns also felt the brunt of communism but are now beautifully reconstructed.

It is a pleasure to wander through so many colourful market places and old churches - full to the brim on Sundays. Poles are sometimes accused of xenophobia but are proud of their country's history: show an interest and you will be overcome by warm and generous hospitality.

In 2004 Poland joined the EU. This move has put it on the map as a serious contender in Europe, with a growing market economy (albeit slowly) and increasing foreign investment. The downside has been many young Poles fleeing in search of work elsewhere in Europe – Poland has the highest rate of unemployment in the EU – but it is widely hailed as a big leap forward.

Best sites

· Poland Information for tourists and business people
· Warsaw Voice English language newspaper.
· The Polish cultural institute Information about Poland for visitors, plus a guide to Polish-related events in the UK
· Polish tourist office
· The CIA world factbook
· Foreign Office travel advice

If you only do three things ...

See the painstakingly reconstructed splendour of central Warsaw. Visit the unspoiled town of Krakow, taking in the nearby salt mine at Wieliczka and the shocking site of Auschwitz-Birkenau. And get away from it all in the High Tatras and the beautiful (if touristy) town of Zakopane.

News and current affairs

Poland's online publications from the world news guide.

Language

Polish, a Slavic language. English, Russian and German are spoken a little in tourist areas and cities.

Climate

Very changeable - summers can be warm but wet, and winters can be long, cold and wet, or extremely cold and snowy with temperatures below freezing. It can get cold in the mountains, and storms and fogs mean that except in summer, walking above a certain level is forbidden. Skiing is possible from November through to March.

Health

Vaccinations against hepatitis A, diptheria and tick-borne encephalitis (if spending time in forested areas) are recommended. The water is drinkable, but chlorinated - Polish mineral water is cheap and tastes better.

Food

Dominated by meat, cabbage, pickled fish and pickled vegetables, it is not for the weight-conscious. Popular dishes are bigos, cabbage, onion and bits of meat; rollmops or other pickled fish, often with soured cream and dill; barszcz, a Ukrainian-influenced beetroot soup, also served with sour cream; pierogi, filled dumplings stuffed with potatoes, mushroom or meat; golabki, cabbage leaves stuffed with meat or vegetables.

Meals are often accompanied by kasza (boiled buckwheat), an acquired taste. Polish icecream and cakes are good desserts. Vodka is the favourite drink: try bison grass or honey flavour. For something less debilitating, Zywiec and EB beers are drinkable but wine is imported and expensive.

Events

Easter: Church services and devotions all week leading up to a celebration on Easter Monday.
July 1-9: Festival of Jewish culture, takes place mainly in the old Jewish district of Kazimierz, Krakow.
August 19-26: Highland folk festival of regional customs, costumes and dance in Zakopane.

What to buy

Silver: beautifully made brooches, necklaces and earrings, often combined with semi-precious stones.
Amber: all different hues and styles, from jewellers or street-markets.
Pottery: prettily decorated blue and white cups, saucers and teapots.
Vodka: straight or flavoured, it's cheap and powerful.

Currency

£1 buys six Polish zloty. Credit cards are becoming more widely accepted, and ATMs exist in the larger towns. Be careful of being fobbed off with out-of-date currency.

Timezone

GMT+1

Embassies and visas

UK: The Polish Embassy, 47 Portland Place, London W1N 1JH (Tel: 0870 774 2700).
Poland: British Embassy, Aleje Róz 1, 00-556 Warsaw, Poland, (Tel: +48 22 311 0000).
Visa requirements: US citizens and most EU (including UK) citizens do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. Canadians, New Zealanders and Australians do not now need a visa.

Getting there

Direct flights to Warsaw and Krakow from the UK and some US cities with the national carrier, Lot (0845 601 09 49). Road travel from neighbouring countries is possible, although delays at the border are likely. There are good international rail connections but passengers should be aware that thefts at stations and on trains are common. Transit visas through Russia, the Ukraine and Belarus are costly.

Related literature

The Captive Mind, Czeslaw Milosz Nobel Prize-winning poetry and prose writer.
House of Day, House of Night, Olga Tokarczuk Psychological novel by popular contemporary Polish writer.
Schindler's Ark, Thomas Keneally Based on the true story of Oskar Schindler and turned into the multi-award winning film Schindler's List.