Why now?

For a mix of Ottoman, Austrian, Slavonic, Muslim, Orthodox and Bosnian culture in one compact, very cheap city that feels more Middle Eastern than European. And because British Airways (ba.com) starts direct flights from Gatwick on March 25 (fly out Thursday, back Sunday).

Where to stay

Regent Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk) offers weekend breaks from £350pp with BA flights and three nights' B&B at the small, family-owned Ada Hotel (adahotel.ba) in the cobbled old town.

Where to eat

Order a Turkish coffee at the cafe in the Buy Book bookstore, popular with local artists and writers. Biban serves traditional dishes - try cevapi, spicy sausage served with onions in warm pitta bread - with panoramic views of the city.

What to buy

Turkish tea sets from small artisan shops.