Riding India’s rails

Ian Jack takes the Delhi to Kolkata Express to see how the country has changed over the last 30 years
  
  


Delhi railway station
Passengers make their way through Delhi station to catch the the Rajdhani night train from Delhi to Kolkata Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Delhi railway station
With a surging economy and booming population, India's railways matter more than ever: in 2005 to 2006, they carried 5.7 billion passengers Photograph: Brijesh Patel
The Rajdhani train
Looking for a seat on the train Photograph: Brijesh Patel
The Rajdhani train
Leaving Delhi for Kolkata, a 900-mile overnight journey that takes 17 hours Photograph: Brijesh Patel
A waiter on the Rajdhani Express
A waiter brings food to the first-class compartments: hot water, a tea bag, cashew nuts, hot pakhora, chocolate, sandwich and an Indian sweet Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Ian Jack on the Rajdhani Express
Over 30 years, Ian Jack has made more than 100 journeys on India's railways Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Views from the Rajdhani Express
Berths come with panoramic views of Uttar Pradesh and Jharkland Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Palm trees in Bengal
Entering Bengal, dry hills give way to green paddy fields and palm trees Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Billboards in Kolkata
City life begins again in Kolkata with its colourful billboards Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Howrah station, Kolkata
Barefoot porters greet the train at Howrah station, Kolkata - it is only 90 minutes late Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Taxis outside Howrah station, Kolkata
Outside, a fleet of Ambassador taxis wait for fares into the city Photograph: Brijesh Patel
BNR Hotel, Puri
The Bengal and Nagpur Railway Hotel in Puri - in the 1980s, it was the only hotel on the beach. Now it is one of many, and is destined to be converted into a 'heritage hotel' Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Puri Beach, India
The once sleepy backwater of Puri beach is now busy like Brighton Photograph: Brijesh Patel
Puri Beach, India
Forty years ago, oil lanterns lit the few bungalows on this spot Photograph: Brijesh Patel
 

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