Saturday sees the start of Las Fallas, Valencia's incendiary annual festival, but every day is a feast day at the recently refurbished Mercado Central, one of world's finest indoor markets
Valencia has many outstanding buildings - from the Gothic, Unesco-listed Silk Exchange to the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences - but one of the most impressive, and useful, is the Mercado Central Photograph: Valencia Tourist BoardThe enourmous Modernista concoction was designed by Alejandro Soler and Francisco Guardia, and completed in 1928. It is a mix of wrought iron and stained glass surmounted with cupolas and weathervanes Photograph: Valencia Tourist BoardAfter a two-year revamp, during which its beautiful ceiling was frustratingly hidden by a moving network of scaffolding, it is back to its former glory. Uncovered, the interior is spectacularPhotograph: Valencia Tourist BoardLight pours into the market through the huge stained glass windowsPhotograph: Gavin McOwanThere are more than 1,000 stalls under a wrought iron roof and a central glass dome encrusted with mosaics. But as impressive as the building itself may be, it is the produce on display that steals the showPhotograph: Gavin McOwanIn the City of Oranges, the selection of fresh fruit and vegetables is astounding Photograph: Gavin McOwanMany stalls specialise in a particular type of produce. One stall sells lemons and garlic, another only snails. This one has mushrooms of every varietyPhotograph: Gavin McOwanThe highlight is the separate fish hall at the bustling centre of the market. The quality and quantity of fresh, gleaming seafood is unsurpassablePhotograph: Gavin McOwan... from cuttlefish, squid and octopus Photograph: Gavin McOwan... to lobster and langoustinesPhotograph: Gavin McOwanA tip: If you're a foodie, it's worth staying in an apartment when you visit Valencia. If you stay in a hotel you'll kick yourself - you'll want to take everything you see at the Mercado home and cook dinner.
Mercado Central is open 7am to 2pm, Mon to Sat. Get there early for breakfast at one of the stalls at the back of the market. La Fallas March 15-19 Photograph: Gavin McOwan