Some people say you should never go back, but they probably never left Bristol. In the short years since I departed, the city centre has been rebuilt and is now home to some of Britain's finest attractions. And, by taking for granted what was on my doorstep, I'd foolishly neglected the ones that were already there.
Nostalgia's no good when the council have ripped up the car-choked roundabouts of old and replaced them with something altogether better. It would be churlish to retain fond memories of a time when dockside drinkers were forced to take a 10-minute walk between the Watershed and the Arnolfini cafes, now linked by a funky bridge. And perhaps I'd just never paid attention until I was in the tourists' shoes, but those continental visitors by the harbour surely never used to make it beyond Bath.
Bristol's attractions aren't necessarily the type you can tick off in a guidebook from the comfort of the sightseeing bus (although the buses are a welcome way of climbing the hills): it is more the ambience, the easy pace, the water and the open spaces. That said, here's a list of ten things you must see to get you started:
1) Take a walk on the wild side
Tracing evolution from single cells to modern man, Wildwalk@Bristol is fascinating. It boasts computer-generated holograms of fish that lived 520m years ago (watch out for the hard-shelled bottom feeder) and aquariums with live ocean specimens such as seahorses. It even has its own tropical rainforest in the middle. Birds and butterflies float around; only a glimpse of the Pitcher and Piano through steamy windows breaks the spell. A great family attraction with clear, concise information and gripping interactive displays.
2) Get all hands on deck
Sitting proud in a dry dock, the SS Great Britain is known as the grandmother of modern shipping - possibly because people don't spend enough time with her. The brainchild of local hero Isambard Kingdom Brunel, she was the world's first iron-built, screw-propelled passenger liner. Launched in 1843, left in the Falklands to rot, and finally brought home in the 1970, she has since benefited from a gradual programme of restoration. You can now wander through the various decks, cabins and salons, or have them brought to life by the guided tours on the hour.
3) Explore your mind
Another facet of the @t-Bristol complex, Explore@Bristol picks up the evolutionary journey where Wildwalk left off and takes a look at humans, from their inner workings to their inventions. Downstairs, the displays concentrate on senses and the brain, with interactive displays that will appeal to young and old. Kids are pelting around laughing, dads are hoisting themselves up to the ceiling via pulleys, and generations are crowding around computer screens: it feels as if we're in a faintly implausible advert. Upstairs, people are trying out virtual volleyball and making their own videos. It's not hard to see why, as a banner proudly claims, this was voted British family attraction of the year.
4) IMAX it
It's easy to mock the comedy oversized 3-D specs handed out on the door of the IMAX cinema; it's easy to scorn the safety advice from the man on the mike who points out the emergency exits and warns of potential nausea and fits. Then the trailers start, and it really does look like the tyrannosaurus' snapping jaws are inches from your popcorn. Truly impressive.
5) Have a dip in the fountain
Water features are the kind of things councils dream up and then get thoroughly lambasted for by the taxpayers. But in Bristol most of the locals are too busy jumping in to complain. Whether it's families with kids paddling in the sun by day, or revellers in an advanced state of refreshment by night, you can blend in by enjoying the water sports. More from VisitBristol.co.uk
6) Suspend your disbelief
Once the first item on any visitor's agenda, the Clifton Suspension Bridge is still the best place for spectacular views over the Avon Gorge. Keep walking up the road over the bridge for a taste of the country and the occasional festival at Ashton Court estate; or find out more about Brunel's feat of engineering at the bridge visitor centre in the heart of Clifton Village.
7) Take a ferry
The new city centre leads you down via a succession of fountains to the water's edge, and what better way to take in the rejuvenated dockside than from a boat? Pass under the new landmark of the horned bridge linking the Arnolfini and Watershed arthouse complexes. Turning left will take you off towards Temple Meads railway station (another Brunel creation - there's no getting away from the man), or right down towards the SS Great Britain and views of the brightly painted houses of Hotwells. Bristolferryboat.co.uk
8) Stay up, bed down
Bristol has long boasted a more liberal licensing regime than much of the rest of the country, and there are plenty of nightclubs open until the wee small hours. Assuming you want to retire to bed at some stage, try the Thistle Hotel - formerly the Grand - at Broad Street (0117 922 7619) for comfort and location. It's tucked right in the heart of the most elegant city-centre streets, but is still just a short step away from the docks and shops. Budget travellers can also enjoy a prime location: the YHA international hostel is right on the dockside.
9) Join in at feeding time
Of Bristol's many restaurants, some of the most stylish come with views over the harbour. You can get some pretty excellent fare at the River Station, or its organic neighbour, Severnshed. Just down the Grove is another favourite, the Mud Dock Café, with its atmospheric blend of DJs spinning house tunes and mountain bikes hanging from the ceiling. More from VisitBristol.co.uk
10) Go to Bath
Locals might debate the relative merits of the two with a certain rivalry, but there's no denying that Bristol's neighbour has plenty to offer in the sightseeing stakes - Georgian mansions and Roman spas spring immediately to mind. If you have the time, it makes sense to combine a visit to Bristol with a trip to Bath. One cheap way of taking in all the sights is to buy the new Bath Pass, adult price £19 per day (£29 for two days, £59 for a week; children, £12, £22, £35), which gets you in to most of the above attractions in Bristol as well. It allows you free entry to all of Bath's major tourist spots, as well as allowing you to ride the sightseeing bus, and it gives you discounts at selected restaurants around the city.
More info The VisitBristol.co.uk website has in-depth information about attractions, restaurants, shopping, and local amenities. To find out the very latest, pick up a copy of the long-established Venue magazine, an essential guide to what's on (fortnightly, £1.90).
Bristol tourist information centres can be found by St Nicholas Market (St Nicholas St, BS1 1UE, 0117 926 0767) and next to the @Bristol complex.
