No fixed abode

Week 5: Bombay Donna spends most of the week moving from place to place in a variety of trains, planes and automobiles, and is struck by both the beauty of the changing landscapes and the dangers involved in travelling abroad
  
  

Women in Rajasthan, India

Namaste,

I finally feel as if I'm adjusting to my nomadic lifestyle. Constantly moving from one place to the next, stopping for a few days, having a look around, off again... The jeep is the only constant thing in my life, and I'm getting quite attached to it.

Pappan and I stayed in Bombay for quite a while. I really liked the city, especially the area we were staying in. It was very Arabic, and reminded me a great deal of the Edgware Road... Lebanese restaurants, the sweet smell of pipes, shwarma and falafel. I explored the whole city on the red double-decker buses, which made me feel at home. The outskirts of the city are made up of slums: homes put together with whatever people could find, many built from Pepsi signs and other advertising hoardings. The contrast between their extreme poverty and these images of consumerism was marked. Up close, however, I have to say that slum life didn't look completely unappealing - sleeping outside, living in close communities, playing with other kids all day... I know it's a ridiculous thought.

I threw caution (and money) to the wind and flew from Bombay to Rajkot in Gujurat to visit an old family friend - I didn't have time to take the 18-hour train as she was to move to another city in the next few days. It was all very exciting and I suddenly felt important and business-like, flying for an hour. I was glad to see Gujurat and talk to people about the earthquake - the damage was still visible throughout the city. We went to visit an Ashram where I was allowed to speak to the guru for a while: a great honour, as he's a very important spiritual leader in India. Meeting these people really makes you feel small.

I took the train back to Bombay, which was quite unpleasant because I'd caught a bug and ran quite a fever for most of the journey. I'm still unsure how I managed to get back to my hostel - I was in quite a state - and I had to stay in bed for a couple of days to recover. It's funny how important home becomes when you are ill abroad. There were moments when I was tempted to catch the next flight home and abandon my trip. I came through it alive and well, of course, and we left Bombay and headed east to the Ajanta and Ellora caves.

The caves were beautiful. They are about 1500 years old and were carved out of the rocks by the Hindu, Buddhist and Jain monks of the time. Most are temples, and are covered with intricate statues and murals depicting religious stories. It's amazing how they have survived over time, with the colours still vibrant.

We spent a few days exploring the caves in Maharashtra and then drove north to Rajasthan - a 24-hour drive! I thought the road would never end. We saw some horrible accidents on the way. We stopped at one hit and run and I helped out, using my first aid kit for the first time. Apparently, most people won't stop to help in India because they're scared they'll get into trouble and end up in jail. It's crazy, but it's quite common for innocent passers-by trying to help to and ending up being sued for damages. How depressing.

The north is so much drier then the south. The landscape is very rugged and arid. The people, in contrast, are very colourful, and the women's saris are much brighter in Rajasthan, almost fluorescent. The women are so beautifully decorated in India, with gold jewellery, bangles, noserings, bindis, earrings, anklets, toerings... I feel so plain and dull in comparison. I have bought a couple of bright skirts, but I can't compete.

We eventually arrived in the beautiful city of Udaipur, after our very long and exhausting journey. They call it the 'Venice of the East'. With its white-washed walls and quaint narrow alleys, it really is a lovely city. There are many palaces here, each more romantic than the next. Many have been converted into five-star hotels, and the maharajas, who have no power anymore, they have become hoteliers.

We are staying in an old mansion overlooking the lake and the views are fabulous. The only problem is the heat. It's about 43 degrees, and I'm feeling it.

It must be getting warmer back home. I miss the cool breeze. Enjoy it for me.

Donna x

 

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