Even if your only knowledge of the 50th State of America is from distant TV memories of Magnum PI cruising the streets of Honolulu in a sports car and open-necked Hawaiian shirt, arriving in Oahu won't come as too much of a shock. This isolated Pacific island, just over 40 miles long and 30 wide, receives more than three million Hawaiian-shirted visitors a year, with tourism providing one third of the state's income. And this figure is set to rise further with the release of this summer's biggest blockbuster, Pearl Harbor, starring Ben Affleck, Kate Beckinsale and a host of Hollywood's finest.
After touchdown, most people head straight for the concrete jungle of Waikiki which, as a strange American-Polynesia hybrid, can be summed up in one phrase: "Have a nice day in paradise". But fortunately, as the tourist towers reach higher and higher, much of the rest of Oahu has managed to remain relatively unspoilt. While you might have to queue for a patch of sand on Waikiki Beach, a 20-minute drive along the coast will find you as much golden sand as you want and a 20-minute drive inland will take you to a completely different world.
Surfers' paradise
With nearly 600 surf sites in Oahu, the surf is nearly always up somewhere around the island. In summer, the southern beaches, including Waikiki and Diamond Head, get their biggest swells, while in winter the boarders move to the North Shore, the sport's ancestral home, where the waves can grow as high as 35ft. For the uninitiated, surfing lessons abound.
Or you can simply join the crowds and watch the action from the safety of your beach towel or pay homage at the North Shore Surf and Cultural Museum in Haleiwa (tel: 808/637 8888). Oahu also has some great swimming beaches, including the beautiful but invariably overcrowded Hanauma Bay. This sheltered spot, just 10 miles south of Waikiki, boasts the best snorkelling on the island but is usually full up by midday on weekends. Further away from Waikiki and much more peaceful is the five-mile stretch of sand at Waimanalo Bay on the windward coast.
Take a hike
Diamond Head is a 760ft volcanic cone rising from the southeast shore and towering majestically above even the highest high-rises of Waikiki. The three-quarter mile hike to the top is strenuous, including 271 steps and two tunnels, but it's worth the effort as, when you emerge on the crater rim, you're rewarded with a wonderful panoramic vista over the whole of Oahu's leeward coast.
There's also great hiking in the forest reserve below the 2,000ft Mt Tantalus, situated just a couple of miles inland from downtown Honolulu. The area is criss-crossed with trails through the dense tropical rainforest, and lookouts provide splendid views over the hustle and bustle of the Hawaiian capital. While you're up here, you might want to pop your head round the door of the Contemporary Museum (tel: 808/526 0232), an impressive modern art collection nestled in several acres of lush gardens.
Pearl Harbor
On December 7, 1941, at 7.55am, Japanese aircraft launched a surprise attack on the US Pacific fleet, which was sitting calmly on "Battleship Row" at Pearl Harbor, a few miles north of Honolulu. By 10am, the attack was over and the US had lost 2,388 men. The greatest single loss of life occurred on board the USS Arizona, which sank in less than nine minutes with the loss of 1,177 crew.
This tragic day is commemorated in the shape of a 184ft-long white memorial structure spanning the mid-portion of the sunken battleship. On the walls are engraved the names of those killed on the Arizona, and it is a moving experience to stare up at the names of the dead and then down at the rusting hulk clearly visible in the shallows.
Before the trip out to the memorial by navy launch, visitors are shown a short film about the attack and its consequences, which is often introduced by one of the Pearl Harbor survivors. Admission to the visitor centre and memorial is free, but arrive early as this is Hawaii's number-one attraction.
Where to eat
As you might expect, eating in downtown Waikiki is pretty much split between the quarterpounder brigade and grand hotel dining. However, there are a couple of notable places in between. Keo's, 2028 Kuhio Avenue (tel: 808/922 3111) serves top-notch Thai curries, and for a slice of home-grown Hawaiian cooking, head for Sam Choy's Diamond Head Restaurant, 449 Kapahulu Avenue (tel: 808/732 8645), for a kalua (roasted pig) or laulau (steamed fish, pork and taro leaves).
Also on Kuhio Avenue (number 2,350) is the Tex-Mex chain Chili's (tel: 808/ 922 9697). Some might find the all-American welcome a little over-zealous, but it turns out delicious Tex-Mex staples such as tacos, ribs and chicken.
If you're taking a break from riding the waves or soaking up the rays on the North Shore, then prop up your board outside Café Haleiwa, 66-460 Kamehameha Ave, Haleiwa (tel: 808/637 5516), and enjoy a delicious burrito, before wandering down the road to the Miura Store to sample shave ice drenched in a sickly sweet syrup and served in a paper cone - a real Hawaiian institution.
Where to shop
The Ala Moana shopping centre is so vast it feels like you could spend a week walking around in air-conditioned comfort without ever passing the same shop twice - and all the big US mainland favourites are here, from Sears and JC Penney to Gap, Levi's and Banana Republic.
For Hawaiiana, head for the International Market Place in downtown Waikiki, a maze of shops and stalls selling everything from hula skirts and aloha shirts to macadamia nuts and island coffee.
The Dole pineapple plantation in the north of the island is a tourist paradise selling a huge range of pineapple paraphernalia, from golf tees to T-shirts, and you can even get a box of the ripe fruit delivered to the airport for your flight home.
If you fancy taking a surfboard back with you, the North Shore towns of Waimea and Haleiwa are home to several surf shacks.
And you won't be able to visit Oahu without wandering into an ABC discount store. These Hawaiian one-stop shops sell everything from suntan cream and tacky beach towels to surfboard keyrings and aloha nail files - all you need for a day on Waikiki beach!
Out and about
The easiest way to get around Oahu is with a rental car. Roads are generally good, with the island bizarrely boasting an interstate highway, and rates are very competitive, especially at the airport. If you stop to ask for directions, the response should be simple enough - just listen out for makai (towards the sea), mauka (towards the mountains), Diamond Head (yep, you guessed it, towards Diamond Head) or ewa (away from Diamond Head).
However, if you can't tell your makai from your mauka and don't relish tackling Honolulu's horrendous rush-hour traffic and windy coastal roads on your own, there's a very efficient bus system, called TheBus, which pretty much covers the island. You can actually circumnavigate Oahu by bus for $1, but it'll take you at least four hours.
Where to stay
Don't be put off by the name, because without doubt the best value accommodation in downtown Waikiki is at the Banana Bungalow Waikiki Beach, 2463 Kuhio Avenue (tel: 808/924 5074). The 12-storey hostel is in a prime position at the heart of all the action and just a couple of minutes' walk from the sea. Dorm beds start at $16 a night, while double rooms start at about $50. All rooms have private bath, TV, air-con and balcony. There's also a cybercafé and bar on site and free pick-up from the airport. A real bargain.
If you're after something a little grander, the 793-room Sheraton Moana Surfrider, 2365 Kalakaua Avenue (tel: 808/922 3111), built in 1901, won't disappoint. This old colonial hotel, which sits bang next door to Waikiki's main beach, is an airy haven of sophistication. If you can't afford the $300-plus price tag, there are free twice-daily historical tours round the hotel's beautiful interior.
Most visitors stay in Waikiki for the simple reason of choice - 33,000 hotel rooms, 450 restaurants and enough shops to eat up every last cent of your tourist dollar. And nowhere on Oahu is more than an hour's drive away from Waikiki. However, if you'd like to wake up next to Hawaii's biggest breakers, there are several low-key accommodation options in the North Shore towns of Waimea and Haleiwa. With names like Surfhouse Hawaii (tel: 808/637 7146), you can probably guess the clientele.
Getting there
British Airways (tel: 0845 7733377) flies up to three times a day from Heathrow to Hawaii via Los Angeles or San Francisco from £611 return plus £56.60 tax. American Airlines (tel: 020-8572 5555) flies daily from £900 return including tax. Call specialist agents such as Trailfinders (tel: 020-7938 3939) or Bridge the World (tel: 0870 444 7474) to find the best deals.
