I've had the most fabulous week. The jungle was amazing. We saw wild elephants, deer, samba, monkeys, wild dogs, wild boar, buffaloes, beautiful birds... but alas, no tigers. We did find fresh paw prints and some tiger poo, mind you, so they weren't too far away. We trekked 30km in the blistering heat and the two guides were very impressed with my stamina. They said they had never seen a western lady walk so far and thought we only liked to sunbathe and shop! The trek was supposed to be only 10 km, but we got carried away, and then the jeep that was supposed to pick us up had problems. I didn't mind at all, much to everyone's amazement - unlike the other guys who weren't so happy about the prospect of walking 15km back to base.
Tourists aren't actually allowed to trek in the jungle, since there have been so many incidents of late. The famous kidnapper, Virappan, who kidnapped a major Bollywood star a few months back, is still at large somewhere in the jungle. The authorities haven't managed to track him down yet, although he has been there for over 30 years! Good police work, I say.
We had two armed guards with us, which was exciting - and necessary on a couple of occasions. Trekking in the jungle is much more dangerous than I had envisaged. You are walking in the territory of tigers, cheetahs and wild elephants, who do not necessarily appreciate your presence. There was one instance when we bumped into a herd of elephants with a baby. They made loud noises and were ready to charge. I was near the front when the guard ahead of me turned and whispered "Run". We all ran as fast as we could back up the hill (not easy, but it's amazing what adrenalin does for you). We hid for a while and, when it was safe, headed back by a different route. A terrifying yet highly thrilling experience.
We made it back safely and spent a couple more days in the jungle soaking up the environment and hanging with the animals (the deer are so friendly, they come right up to you). Then we headed up to the cooler hill stations of the Nilgiri hills. The bus ride up was just fantastic, driving through winding hills covered with tea and coffee plantations. We stayed near the top in Ooty for a few days and took the steam train back down to the bottom for more panoramic views. Each day I couldn't believe the views could get any better, but each day they did. I didn't want to close my eyes for a moment.
We got chatting with the train driver, and he invited us round for dinner. It was lovely, the best food I've had in India. He had a tiny two-room house in which lived his family of seven! They live in such close quarters, it reminded me of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory - four to a bed. But what kind, warm people. One of the sons is an artist and he gave me a drawing of Ganesha (the elephant god) which he had done. I was so touched.
In Ooty there is a racecourse, and we explored the stables. There were over 500 racehorses, and we watched them being cleaned, combed, re-shod and exercised. It reminded me of being a child, when I used to ride regularly Pappan used to train horses too, so he felt at home.
Today, we are heading up north to some Tibetan settlements - apparently they like visitors. Then we will go to the Jog Falls (waterfalls) and then up to Goa for a while. Pappan has a jeep - I think I'll stick with him for a bit!
A friend asked me about the sunsets in India. They are beautiful, of course: huge and orange-pink, and the sun always seems to sink into the clouds just before reaching the horizon.
Namaste! an overstimulated Donna xxx
