Rubber-necking. It's difficult to resist when the footpath takes you past a millionaire's des res. Fort George on Guernsey is where the tax exiles hide away. The hideous houses, with their high walls and hedges to deter the likes of me and you, are one of the highlights of the island's coastal walk. But where are all the idle rich? No sign, no movement from behind the curtains, so best press on. There's a lot of coast to see.
Guernsey is Jersey's quieter sister. It's smaller, less crowded and not quite so keen on showing off. In a long weekend, you can comfortably see all the island. A slow drive round the coastal roads takes a couple of hours, but the best way to experience the island is on foot or two wheels.
The coastal walk begins in Havelet Bay, south of St Peter Port, and follows first the west coast then the south around to Pleinmont tower. Guernsey tilts like a badly-made wedding cake, and the south coast is the thick end of the slice with steep cliffs and secluded bays. The full walk is a challenging 17 miles, but the coast-road bus route is never too far away - those who find it impossible to pass the many beaches or cafés without stopping can always cut back and flag down a bus.
Beginning with Fermain, each bay appears more beautiful than the last. At Le Jaonnet, the footpath is the only route to the tiny beach, and Petit Bot is stunning. Half-way round at Le Gouffre, the Hollows cliff-top restaurant has an open terrace with a view of the bay and an inviting menu.
Originally, the Channel Islands were in the fiefdom of William of Normandy, and some islanders point out that this makes mainland Britain their colony - rather than the other way around. Relationships with France have always been a little fraught, and half-hearted attempts to retake the islands pepper the history books, although the only tangible evidence of a violent past are the reinforced concrete ruins left by the most recent invaders. German forces landed 60 years ago, on June 30 1940. There was no resistance. Many people had already been evacuated to the mainland, and the remaining islanders were made only too aware by London how futile it would be to resist.
The result was a very civilised war. Violent incidents were few and, after the D-Day landings, the islanders and the occupying force starved together as food supplies were cut off.
In the intervening five years, the Germans must have spent the entire time constructing bunkers. Most are ruins, but at Fort Hommet a gun emplacement has been restored to give an impression of the damp, cramped conditions that the gunners had to put up with. Better than the Russian front though. St Peter Port is worth a wander, with cobbled streets and even several shops that do not sell perfume, jewellery or woollens. Restaurants are many and quality is high - as are the prices in some.
On a hill leading out of the town is the house where Victor Hugo, author of Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame, spent his exile from France during the reign of Napoleon III. The house is a testament to his vast ego. His motto "I Hugo" is everywhere. Each morning, he used to take a shower on the roof. Presumably his neighbours were very understanding.
The nearest of the other Channel Islands is Herm, just over 20 minutes away. If you take the early ferry, you can walk around the whole island, which can be done in a couple of hours, have a huge lunch at the White House restaurant, then a snooze on the beautiful Shell beach until it's time to catch the ferry back to St Peter Port. It is an itinerary well worth following; if I'd had the time, I would have done it all over again the following day.
The practicals
How to get there
By air: British European Airways (0990 676676), formerly Jersey European, flies Southampton-Guernsey from £89 return including airport taxes; Gatwick-Guernsey return costs from £99; Birmingham- Guernsey return from £130. Special offers, when available, £59 return from all three airports. Other airlines flying to Guernsey include British Airways (0345 222111), British Midland (0870 6070555) and Aurigny (01481 822886), which has just introduced a service from Manchester and runs a service to neighbouring Jersey, single fare £33, return £66.22.
By sea: Condor Ferries (01305 761551) run from Poole, and Weymouth. The fastest ferry takes two hours from Weymouth, and costs from £80 return without a car.
Bus fares: Guernseybus and Island Coachways have the same fare structures. Adults singles start at 72p with a three-day rover ticket costing £13.
Car hire: Very reasonable. In summer, Harlequin (01481 239511) can provide a small hatchback for just £18 per day, plus £5 collision damage waiver, or £151.50 per week including petrol and insurance.
Bike hire: Mountain bikes cost £5 per day (£25 per week) from Cycleworld (01481 258285) with free delivery to any point on the island.
Where to stay
Hotel de Havelet (three-star), from £59 per person B&B in summer. Island Getaways (020-8980 7244) offers a three-day break with two nights' bed and breakfast at the Fermain Hotel on the south-west coast for £179, including flights from a variety of mainland airports and hire car. Self-catering accommodation tends to book up very quickly. The Guernsey information centre on 01481 723552 has an up-to-date list of vacancies.
What to do
Victor Hugo museum at 38 Hauteville in St Peter Port. Forty-minute tours £4. Sausmarez Park, St Martin, tours daily £4.90, entrance to the Fine Art park £2. No charge for entry to the grounds. Guernsey museum and art gallery, St Peter Port, open 10am-5pm daily, £2.50. Castle Cornet, St Peter Port, open 10am-5pm daily, £4. Fort Hommet Bunker. Open 2pm-5pm daily, £1.50.
What to buy
Gold and silver jewellery: Bruce Russell & Son, Le Gron, St Saviours Parish. Sweaters: Cost between £40 and £50. Guernsey Woollens factory shop; Pitronneries industrial estate, St Peter Port.
Where to eat
St Peter Port: Christies, Pollett Street: a meal for two costs £52 without wine. Not cheap. De Nellos, Pollett Street: £35pp with wine. Expensive, but excellent food. Out of town: The Hollows, about 15 minutes from St Peter Port, in Le Gouffre. Lunch: grilled tuna with fennel and new potatoes £9.25.
Herm
Ferries: from St Peter Port from 8:30 am, last return 5:35pm, £7 return. Meals: Mermaid pub, bar food and lunches. Ship restaurant, lunch £9 - £15. At the White House Hotel conservatory, lunch around £30 for two plus wine. Excellent value.
