Why? I was there between 1987 and 1989, which was a very exciting time. Although Franco had been dead for more than 10 years, the post-dictatorship party was still in full swing; marijuana had been legalised and people were still celebrating their new freedoms. If you didn't have a job, there were few better places to be. We never seemed to go to sleep. I fell desperately in love with a young Peruvian who assured me that he was going to start a revolution in Peru, which was a very exciting prospect. I gather they're still waiting for the revolution there, though.
What's the best thing? The sheer sociability of the people and the place. You can go out whenever you want and there are always loads of people around - none of whom are getting mindlessly drunk. It's a real outside city and there's a tremendously gregarious atmosphere. Apparently, Spaniards spend an average of two and a half hours a day just socialising in bars. Compare that to us trudging back home to watch TV.
My perfect day: I'd start off with a really good breakfast - freshly-squeezed orange juice, a good coffee and a croissant - in one of the old cafes where people used to hold literary debates in the last century. Then I'd spend the rest of the morning wandering around the streets, taking in the atmosphere and exploring all the marvellous bookshops. After a long siesta, I'd set out for a long evening of bar-crawling and tapas which, I hope, would carry on until three or four in the morning.
My advice: Madrid doesn't boast a vast amount of magnificent architecture, but that doesn't really matter: the real atmosphere is to be found on the streets. The best thing to do is to wander around, drink the place in, and befriend some Spaniards. Watch your wallet and don't criticise anyone's mother - they're very protective of them!
Getting there: Iberia (0845 6012854, www.iberia.es) offers return flights from London to Madrid from around £118.
Miranda France's book, Don Quixote's Delusions: Travels in Castilian Spain, is published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson at £20
