Address: North Deeside Road, Aberdeen, AB15 9YA.

Telephone: 01224 861000.

Website: www.marcliffe.com.

First impressions: I thought I'd taken the wrong turn as the winding rhododendron-lined drive, which promised a country pile of brooding Aberdonian granite, delivered a rather modest whitewashed house. However, north-east Scotland's most luxurious hotel is quite deceptive. It's a tartan tardis - a small hotel with manorial pretensions. The flagstone floors, antique golf-memorabilia, stuffed capercaillies, and U-boat-sized 'in yer dreams' mounted salmon trophies offer succour to delusional fishermen and ancestor-starved Americans seeking Scottish relatives.

What are the rooms like? The 42 individually-arranged rooms - named after Scottish castles - have feel-good views over the Marcliffe's 11 acres of woodland. Large and tasteful, they combine homely touches with modern chrome and tiled en-suite bathrooms.

The bed test: Tony Blair, and the Sultan of Brunei, have at some stage sank their VIP derrieres into the Marcliffe's king-sized beds. The beds are firm and forthright; though I can't vouch for the springs of the bed Meatloaf used.

The restaurant: Bright and breezy. The Conservatory spills on to the south-facing patio. My pan-seared monkfish came up trumps. The wine-list is the size of the Encyclopaedia Britannica.

The bar: The old drawing-room has a lot of character. Stroll over to the piano, and peruse the framed photographs of the Marcliffe's glitterati clientele.

What is there to do nearby? Acres of top-quality links courses, salmon-fishing at the hotel's own beat on the river Dee and 4X4 Land Rover highland safaris are all offered to the Marcliffe's guests.

How much? Special weekend breaks start from £180 per night for a shared room half-board.