Sunnier outlook: the Tjaktja lake
The south-east corner of the Sarek. The peaks here are more rounded, and I find a trail that winds between them giving a constant view of the huge Tjakjajaure lake. Or that's the plan. Fatal error. Always factor in the weather!
Huge drops descend before my breakfast has settled and I've had time to get a decent photo. The clouds stay high enough for me to have enough walking visibility, but I will have to imagine the scenery. I make cautious progress. Everything is so slippery: rocks, grass and even the exposed roots of trees. I resign myself to wet boots for the rest of the day.
I wonder about the Sami, and how they cope with this weather when they are out with the reindeer, but realise that part of the attraction of this wild life is the change of perspective. Matters such as a little personal discomfort take on a much lesser significance - it's all about being part of the harmony of nature and the natural rhythm of events; living with the natural environment rather than fighting against or imposing on it. So I raise my face and take pleasure in the trickle of the raindrops on my cheeks and tongue.
I am beginning to understand why the Sami will not eat the edible white moss, known as reindeer moss, even in times of hardship. It is not because it's somewhat tasteless (and it is!) but because the reindeer would be deprived.
As it is raining, today I am aiming for what appears to be sheltered spot marked on my map as Partestugan. There are many streams to cross, all rushing along recklessly, and the sound of water on rock fills the forest. I make it there in time to build a good fire in the wood stove and soon steam is rising from clothes and boots. Partestugan is on a little peninsular in the Sjabttjakjavrre lake, and with no streams all water comes from the lake. I make sure I wash at one end and fill the drinking water bucket from the other!
Two German woman have also chosen this spot and laugh at my concerns - they must be at least twenty years my senior, so perhaps a less scrupulous way of living leads to longevity. They have brewed up a pot of tea and the elder pulls out a hip flask to strengthen the brew - obviously seasoned hikers. We share the fire and a dumb show, and I fall asleep to their snores and the rippling sound of the lake.
