Why? It's a magical place, with wonderful temples.

The best thing? The Heian temple complex when it is surrounded by mist or under heavy rain. Then, it seems to be floating above Kyoto. Generally, the Japanese do not embrace outsiders, but around the temples there is a great sense of acceptance.

My ideal day: I'd go to the Heian temples. There's a soft musicality to the place, and it is not overrun by tourists. I'd go down into the city at twilight, to see the geishas come out of their houses and slip into cars to be driven away - it's like watching a butterfly being transported. In the evening, I'd dine out at a Chinese restaurant along the river with a view of the city.

My advice: Learn how to take a Japanese bath. If you do it right, then it should last for at least an hour. You can practise at home.

Getting there: Virgin Atlantic (01293 450150) flies Heathrow-Tokyo for around £608pp return.

Where was your best holiday? Havana, Cuba. It's like visiting a beautiful woman in a shabby dress. You can just still see the colours and you seem to be in an endless pool of music. Every street corner you go to has music, and it hasn't been manufactured for the tourists.

What's the best hotel you have stayed in? Hotel Gritti Palace, Venice. It's not just the hotel, it's arriving at the hotel dock by boat. Venice always gives you the sense that something significant happened the day before.

Where do you want to go next? Chernobyl and Moscow, for research purposes. Moscow is a tough, vibrant city.

What do you never travel without? A pen and notebook.

· Martin Cruz Smith wrote Gorky Park. His latest book, Tokyo Station, is published by Macmillan at £16.99.