Ros Taylor 

In training

Planning to travel by rail in the States? Find out how best to go about it with Ros Taylor's top 10 tips
  
  

Amtrak train

1 Not all US stations have a platform. They don't need one. Any doubts about where the train will stop will be resolved when a deep whistle sounds in the distance, the great corrugated silver beast rolls in, a single door opens, a stepladder is lowered, and the rest of the passengers rush towards it.

2 On most long-distance trains, especially at busy times, the conductor will tell you where to sit. He or she might not like it if you decide to move later on, even though an entire carriage next to yours is empty. Your neighbour may be smelly, too large for his seat or downright repellent, but negotiating a move requires diplomacy. Conductors tend to regard themselves as your hosts at the Amtrak dinner party.

3 Striking up a conversation is not regarded as intrusive on American trains, so do talk to your neighbour occasionally. He or she will love your accent, may well thank you for your support in the war on terrorism, and will know far more about their country's beliefs and ideals than you do about yours. It's worth reading up on the Constitution and the speeches of Abraham Lincoln and Martin Luther King before you go. They will often be quoted to you.

4 Don't expect that the train will speed up from its habitual 40mph because it is running late. Equally, don't expect it to be on time either. The timetable anticipates hold-ups, and delays can disappear as the train lumbers towards its final destination. Look on the slowness as an opportunity to wave back as you pass houses and farms.

5 Amtrak can take you to Truth or Consequences, a small New Mexican town named after a game show and neighbouring a grey chunk of rock called Elephant's Butte. It won't, however, take you to any part of South Dakota.

6 Bring a map with you. At times it will seem very important to know whether you're in Mississippi or Alabama.

7 Booking a cabin is expensive, but worth it for an overnight trip: Amtrak seats recline just far enough to hint at how comfortable a bed would be.

8 Don't eat the cafe food if you can avoid it: order a meal in the dining car instead, or bring a good supply of bagels, pretzels, Chicken in a Biscuits, and the other delicacies offered by American supermarkets. Strictly speaking, you are only allowed to eat these at your seat - probably to encourage your neighbours to buy a flaccid hot dog from the cafe.

9 Don't get off. Detrain.

10 Travel by railroad while you still can; many politicians would like to see the heavily subsidised Amtrak, which only makes a profit on the north-eastern corridor routes, split up and sold off. There's a reason why LA has no public transport to speak of, and it has a great deal to do with the buying power of the oil and car industries.

· Ros Taylor travelled nearly 3000 miles on the Crescent, the Coast Starlight and the Acela Regional trains, as well as a couple of Greyhound buses masquerading as connecting services. She booked most of the journeys via the excellent www.amtrak.com, and could not afford a cabin on any of them.

 

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