The opportunity to throw oneself off a cliff - sometimes backwards, generally somersaulting, but always at great speed - is not high on the list of priorities of most boarders and skiers when they head down to the local bucket shop in search of a cheap week in the Alps.
But for those with even modest abilities, Verbier can offer some of the best freeriding in the Alps. Freeriding, for the uninitiated, is an extreme form of boarding and skiing in which riders hurtle, at phenomenal speeds, down the offest of off-piste slopes and couloirs while performing the odd 360 jump. For the novice, it simply is not.
Last week, enthusiasts were treated to the annual British-run Verbier Ride, a chance to catch some of Europe's best freeriders on some of its most challenging terrain. For those looking on, the events were all organised to make it easy to ride between them. But for the better boarder, this was more than a spectator sport: there was also the chance to compete. The big air and skier/boarder cross events, according to Warren Smith, the British freerider who founded the event in 1999, "are open to guys who just want to have a go".
While the freeriding is undoubtedly Verbier's main attraction - some of the black runs are little more than mogul-strewn vertical drops - there is enough terrain over the four valleys to keep even a lower intermediate like me occupied. But the resort is a very easy place to get lost. More than that, if you take a wrong turn it's even easier to find yourself facing terrain way beyond your ability. (Life would be a lot easier if European resorts adopted the North American system of signposting and naming runs at junctions.)
To be honest, my experience of off-piste boarding in Verbier amounted to little more than straying a few metres from the marked runs - an improvement nevertheless. I certainly had too much of the self-preservation gene to compete in the Ride.
Indeed, given the dangers of avalanches or simply getting lost, anyone wanting to try freeriding should book a guide or lessons. (In January, poor snow meant much of the off-piste terrain, which is lift-served, was closed; anyone who ventured down would have discovered huge rocks just below that seemingly deep snow.) And lessons aren't too expensive: Adrenaline offers freeride courses in classes of two to three, for around £90 for three half days.
Andre, my snowboard instructor, showed remarkable patience for someone forced to deal for hours on end with an over-nervous ass. On one of the easier runs he also provided a great tip for improving control of the board: ride with your hands firmly planted on your hip. It is effete - I felt like Larry Grayson on snow - but when you can't wave your hands around to correct your balance, you develop much better control of the board with your legs.
Off the hill, Verbier is one of the liveliest resorts in the Alps. Switzerland has a well-deserved reputation for budget-busting expense, and Verbier is certainly not a cheap option. Alcohol, in particular, is expensive: a small beer costs around £3 and some clubs will only sell spirits by the bottle (around £100), though, thankfully for liver function, you can keep it behind the bar for the duration of your stay.
Staying in a chalet cuts down on food expense, but if money is not really an issue, the Septième Ciel is the most luxurious chalet in the resort. Bedroom windows look out over the stunning valley, there's an outdoor Jacuzzi in which to sip the free-flowing champagne and chauffeurs on hand to ferry you around. And all yours for only £17,000 a week.
Way to go
Getting there Swissair (0845 6010956) flies from London Heathrow to Geneva from £90 return (not including taxes. The Ski Club of Great Britain's website (skiclub.co.uk) has links to operators offering package holidays in Verbier.
Courses: Adrenaline (+79 323 15 80). It will be running a freeride contest in Verbier on March 9-10.
Where to stay: for the Septième Ciel chalet, contact Descent International (020-7989 8989).
Where to eat: Brunos has cheap pizzas and standard Italian fare. Tora Negro is more upmarket, but has the standard salad bar, steaks, fish, etc. Fer au Cheval is a good place to go straight from the piste.
Where to drink: Offshore has a surfboard-decked bar and fills up quickly for early après ski. Crocs is probably the best of the pre-club bars while Kings, decked out in flocked wallpaper, is the place when you can't face any more partying. Verbier also has plenty of clubs. Taras offers pop music of the school disco variety and expensive drink. Farm Club, a favourite of Fergie's (apparently), sells spirits for £100 a bottle.
Further information:
You can join the Ski Club of Great Britain (020-8410 2000) for £45pp, £66 for a family and £10 for under 24s and get up-to-date information on skiing resorts and discounts on holidays, airport car parking, airport hotels, car hire, ski and boot rental, buying ski and board equipment and clothing and dry slope/artificial indoor skiing. For more on Verbier, visit www.verbier.ch.
Country code: 0041.
Time difference: GMT +1hr.
Flight time: Heathrow to Geneva 1hrs.
£1= 2.36 Swiss francs.
