The Victorian industrialists who left such an indelible mark on Belfast would probably have disapproved, but the city they helped to shape will soon be alive to flamenco and fiesta, while tapas and sangria will feature alongside the Ulster fry and Guinness in many of its restaurants and bars. Spanish and Catalan culture is the theme of the 38th Belfast Festival at Queen's University, Ireland's biggest arts festival and, after Edinburgh, the second biggest in the UK. More than 100,000 people are expected to attend its multitude of events between 27 October and 12 November.
The festival was founded in the early Six ties by a group of academics at Queen's who modelled it on Edinburgh's example. It has grown to become a vital, vibrant part of Belfast life, a chance to show off a city that does not always enjoy the best publicity. Something of a cultural beacon during the Troubles, particularly in the turbulent Seventies when even local people were reluctant to venture into the city centre, the festival has also played a significant role in the regeneration of Belfast's image. Festival time, indeed, is the perfect introduction to Belfast. 'There is,' says festival director Rosie Turner, 'a real buzz about the place.'
It is a city which will surprise and delight those who know it only from the TV news. Those industrialists would not feel too alienated if they returned today. A Victorian grandness and solidity still begins at the magnificent City Hall and radiates outward through elegant city buildings such as the restored St George's Market and the recently extended Linen Hall Library to many suburban streets of Victorian and Edwardian terraces. But take a boat trip down the River Lagan and you see a new city emerging. That reassuring giant of Belfast life, the Harland and Wolff shipyard (where the Titanic was built), may still dominate the harbour skyline but on either side of the Lagan there are signs of new development. Where Victorian warehouses once stood, there are fashionable waterside apartments, the strikingly designed concert venue, the Waterfront Hall, and a new Hilton hotel.
High-quality hotels are springing up at an extraordinary rate, and good restaurants, a rarity at the beginning of the Nineties, are now easily found. There are many smart new bars and chic cafes, particularly along the Lisburn Road - the Ta Tu bar and restaurant is only the smartest and latest - and along the 'Golden Mile' from Great Victoria Street, where Robinson's is a big attraction, to the university area.
Thankfully, there are also a host of marvellous pubs little changed from Victorian days. The Crown Liquor Saloon, opposite Belfast's most famous hotel landmark, the recently expanded Europa, is surely the most beautiful Victorian pub anywhere, while White's Tavern (Belfast's oldest), the Fountain Tavern and Kelly's Cellars are also worth a visit. Traditional music sessions can also be found in two other atmospheric old pubs, the Rotterdam and the Kitchen Bar.
About a third of Northern Ireland's 1.6 million people live in Belfast, but it rarely feels crowded, even in the busy shopping centres. The laid-back nature of the locals helps - this is a city where you're treated as a welcome visitor, not a tourist to be suffered - and many attractions are within comfortable walking distance. The city has moved on remarkably since the peace process began, though there are tours to the loyalist and republican heartlands in West Belfast.
Belfast is also enjoying its first film festival (Cinemagic, which begins in early December) and the first phase of the Odyssey, Northern Ireland's main millennium project, opens in November. It includes a 10,000-seater sports and entertainment arena, state-of-the-art science and technology museum, an Imax cinema and a huge shopping centre. But the main event remains the festival at Queen's.
There are a number of special festival breaks on offer (Guidelines Tourism, on 028 9146 5697, specialises in festival packages), and many hotels have special weekend rates. But a longer stay will be amply repaid. The sheer breadth and quality of the festival offerings, including leading Irish and overseas theatre, dance, comedy, classical, jazz and folk music, staged at 20 venues around the city, offer the perfect opportunity to give Belfast the attention it deserves.
Festival highlights
Compania Sara Baras Sensaciones
A dance journey through the different styles of the renowned all-female flamenco troupe. Sunday 29 October.
The Ornette Coleman residency
The legendary jazz musician celebrates his seventieth year with two world premieres on his only European dates. The Belfast Suite, to be performed on Tuesday 7 November, is his unique fusion of jazz and traditional Irish music with a group of leading Irish musicians. The Naked Lunch Live, on Friday 10 November, sees Coleman performing his score to The Naked Lunch with his trio and the Ulster Orchestra, conducted by co-composer Howard Shore, while the film is screened with subtitles.
Els Joglars Daaali
UK and Ireland premiere for latest production of the noted Catalan theatre company. Els Joglars stage the life of Salvador Dali, from Thursday 26 October to Saturday 28 October. Dali's life and art will be recreated using an amazing electronic screen to paint the pictures. www.elsjoglars.com
The Sixteen
The world-famous choral group performs Spanish and English works in Belfast's Protestant and Catholic cathedrals - St Anne's on 2 November and a day later inSt Peter's.
Hidden Treasures
A range of marvellous Belfast buildings and gardens, including the beautiful Harbour Office, have been specially opened for the festival.
Theatre in Crumlin Road Courthouse
The Crumlin Road courthouse, notorious during the Troubles, is now the setting for seven plays specially commissioned from leading Belfast writers by the Tinderbox Theatre co, from Friday 27 October to Saturday 11 November.
Accommodation
Hilton Hotel
4 Lanyon Place, Belfast BT1 3LP
Tel: 028 9027 7000
Email: hilton_belfast @hilton.com
The city centre's only five-star hotel is near the waterfront area of the city. It has a health club with pool.
The McCausland
34-38 Victoria Street, Belfast BT1 3GH
Tel: 028 9022 0200
Email: info@mccauslandhotel.com
This striking Italianate four-storey building is not far from the river. Its excellent restaurant offers special pre-show meals and post-show tapas during the festival.
Malone Lodge
60 Eglantine Avenue, Belfast BT9 6DY
Tel: 028 9038 8000
Email: info@malonelodgehotel.com
The recently renovated hotel in the university area offers special festival feasts in its restaurant. Reasonable rates.
The Crescent Townhouse
13 Lower Crescent, Belfast BT7 INR
Tel: 028 9032 3349
Email: info@crescenttownhouse.com
Stylish boutique hotel in university area . A fashionable brasserie (the Metro) and bar (BarTwelve) are attached. Contact Belfast Welcome Centre (see above) for details.
Ash-Rowan
12 Windsor Avenue, Belfast BT9 6EE
Tel: 028 9066 1983
Once the home of Titanic designer Thomas Andrews, this upmarket B&B is famous for its gourmet breakfasts and friendly atmosphere.
Eating out
Cayenne Restaurant
7 Lesley House, Shaftsbury Square
Tel: 028 9033 1532
The latest success story from Jeanne and Paul Rankin who made their name with Roscoffs, which Cayenne replaced, but whose name lives on in their two cafes in Arthur and Fountain Streets.
The Morning Star
17-19 Pottinger's Entry
Tel: 028 9023 5986
This old coaching inn now serves some of the best-value food in Belfast in its upstairs restaurant and bar area. Crocodile and kangaroo steaks, introduced by its Australian co-owner, are often on the menu.
Nick's Warehouse
35-39 Hill Street
Tel 028 9043 9690
A highly-rated restaurant and wine bar in the cathedral quarter, Nick's has won a loyal following with excellent food, mostly local. Great value downstairs.
Alden's
229 Upper Newtownards Road
Tel: 028 9065 0079
Innovative cooking in chic atmosphere in East Belfast's best restaurant (not far from Stormont Castle).
Villa Italia
39/41 University Road
Tel: 028 9032 8356
Inexpensive Italian food and lively atmosphere mean occasional queues, near Queen's University.
To see
Tours
Citybus Tours (Tel: 028 9045 8484) operates the Living History tours (1pm, Tue, Thu, Sun); the Belfast City tours (1pm Mon, Wed, Sat) and the new City Hopper which leaves hourly between 10am and 4pm Tue-Sat. Tour Troubles-related Belfast with Black Taxi Tours (mobile: 07860 127207, email michael@belfasttours.com. Baileys' historical pub tours of Belfast (tel: 028 9268 3665) operate from May to September but group tours can be arranged all year.
City Hall
Donegal Square
Tel: 028 9027 0456
Magnificent classical renaissance building at the heart of Belfast. The free daily afternoon tours at 2.30pm are a fascinating introduction to the city.
Ulster Folk and Transport Museum
Cultra, near Holywood
Tel: 028 9042 8428
Some of Belfast's oldest houses have been transplanted to 60 acres of parkland a short train ride from the city centre to recreate nineteenth-century Belfast life. There is also a transport exhibition and a hugely popular Titanic exhibition. Allow a whole day.
River Lagan Cruises
Depart from Lagan Lookout
Tel: 028 9033 0844, or mobile 0771 891 0423
A recent introduction, the Joyce, a 33-seater pleasure boat takes you through the rapidly developing waterside area of Belfast, starting at 1pm, 2pm and 3pm on weekdays and at 2pm,3pm and 4pm at weekends).
Ulster Museum
Stranmillis Road
Tel 028 9038 3000
Special Spanish armada exhibition, magnificent art gallery and fascinating exhibits from the shipbuilding and linen industries that Belfast was built on.
Getting there
Belfast City Airport (short train ride to city centre). British Airways (028 9045 7200) from Leeds-Bradford, Stansted and Gatwick, Bristol and Birmingham (plus via Birmingham to Edinburgh, Glasgow and Exeter)
Belfast International Airport (40 min bus ride to Belfast Centre). British Midland (0870 60 70 5555) from Heathrow and East Midlands; EasyJet (0870 6000 000) from Liverpool and Luton.
Ferry Liverpool-Belfast on Norse Irish Ferries (028 9077 9090); Stranraer-Belfast on Stena Line (08705 707070); Stranraer and Heysham-Belfast on Seacat (08705 523523)
Information and booking
Belfast Welcome Centre
St Anne's Court, 59 North Street, Belfast BT1 1NB
Tel: 028 9024 6609, fax 028 9031 2424
Email: info@nitb.com
Email for booking: belfastbreaks@nitic.net
Festival bookings
Box Office
Festival House, 25 College Gardens, Belfast BT9 6BS
Tel: 028 9066 5577, fax 028 9066 3733
Email: festival@qub.ac.uk
Northern Ireland Tourist Board information line: 08701 555250
