The urban sophisticates of Copenhagen like to tell a joke about the Danish national railway company: why have intercity trains when there is only one city? They conveniently forget about the country's second largest city, Aarhus, a vibrant, youthful place that easily competes with the capital as a weekend destination.
Situated on the eastern coast of the Jutland peninsula, which shelters it from the worst of the North Sea weather, Aarhus is a manageable city with a population of 275,000, of which 30,000 are students. It has recently undergone a massive renovation project, and the thriving waterfront area - Vadestedet - is jammed with hip hangouts, providing the focus of the city's nightlife.
The centre of the city mixes pedestrianised shopping streets with narrow lanes of timbered houses. During the summer months, the streets are thronged with revellers right through to the small hours as the locals take full advantage of the region's long white nights.
Where to tune in
Don't expect a kicking club scene in Aarhus, as the focus is on a thriving live music industry. The bars lined up along the river in Vadestedet also offer lots of possibilities.
· Voxhall
Vester Alle 15, voxhall.dk.
Eclectic underground feel in a state-of-the-art venue. Recent acts have included 808 State and ex-Pixies frontman Frank Black.
· Train
Toldbodgade 6, train.dk.
One of the city's most important live music venues, hosting everything from jazz through to local and international rock and pop acts.
· Jazzbar Bent J
Norre Alle 66.
Danes have a love affair with jazz, and this is the place to see both local and international acts in a friendly atmosphere - it claims to be Scandinavia's longest running jazz bar and, believe me, it really swings at weekends.
· Casablanca
Rosensgade 12.
A hip bar that attracts the city's trendsetters as well as a more sedate early-evening crowd.
Where to eat
There are dozens of bakeries stuffed full of mouth-watering pastries as well as bread, coffee and sandwiches. For a more serious eating experience, check out the following:
· Poême
Fredens Torv 2, poeme.dk.
Run by a Jamaican émigré and an Italian chef, Poême offers an affordable and adventurous set menu that fuses Caribbean, Mediterranean and Scandinavian influences.
· Jacobs BBQ
Vestergade 3.
An atmospheric place to hang out on a warm evening as the restaurant focuses on a timbered courtyard where, during the warmer months, live music is performed. The food is mainly meat and veg but is well prepared and not too heavy on the wallet.
Where to shop
Shopping in Aarhus is a great experience due to the size of the place and quality on offer.
· Munthe plus Simonsen
Borggade 2, muntheplussimonsen.dk.
Check out the only other branch of Copenhagen's hippest boutique.
· Bohemia
Møllestien 57.
A quirky shop specialising in handmade wooden toys and designer glass, in a cobbled street that contains a number of similar outlets.
· Blues
Volden 20.
Another very trendy though more affordable clothes shop, whose designs are created in Aarhus.
Where to stay
Expect to pay upwards of £60 for a double with breakfast. There are some bargains to be had in the B&B sector. Contact the tourist office for details, and be prepared to pay £20 plus for a double per night.
· Royal Store Torv 4, tel: 8612 0011. £120 plus.
A grand old hotel next to the cathedral in the city centre; 30% discount at weekends.
· Guldsmeden
Guldsmedgade 40, tel: 8613 4550, £60 plus.
A homely hotel run by a young couple who know the city well. Right in the heart of the so-called Latin Quarter.
· Scandic Plaza
Banegaardspladsen 14, 8732 0100, scandic-hotels.com, £110 plus.
Another good option for the city centre, the Plaza offers comfortable well designed en suite rooms.
Where to be arty
· Art Museum
Vennelystparken, aarhuskunstmuseum.dk, Tues - Sun, 10am- 5pm, 40DKr.
Features a fine collection of Danish art - the dramatic abstracts of Asger Jorn are well represented, and the building is a fine example of modern Danish architecture.
Where to be natural
To the north, Risskov hosts a blue flag beach, while to the south Marselisborg offers a wildlife sanctuary, a royal residence and some great forest walks. A 30-45-minute walk or short bus ride away.
Getting there
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies to Aarhus from £19.99 one way. Danish Railways runs a regular train service to and from Copenhagen, journey time roughly 2hours 30mins, cost around £20 each way.
Getting around
The Aarhus Pass is valid on local transport and in all museums for 48hours, price DKr110.
Further information
Danish tourist board (0900 1600109, visitdenmark.com or visitaarhus.com).
Country code: 0045.
Flight time: 1hr 35mins.
Time difference: +1 hour.
£1=11.5 Danish kroner.
· Andrew Spooner is the joint author of the Rough Guide to Copenhagen.
