Northumberland is England's wildest and least spoilt county with a coastline offering mile after mile of sand and solitude. Its beaches are acknowledged as some of the cleanest and safest in Europe, and are dominated by natural fortifications of rock and river and dramatic fairytale castles such as those at Bamburgh and Lindisfarne. And there is enough sand to satisfy the most imperialistic of sandcastle builders.
Apart from a lack of lifeguards, they are all good for families, but bear in mind that if you lust for seafront hotels with pseudo Mediterranean chic or, at the opposite end, 100 decibel amusement arcades and soggy chips, then head south.
Some of these strands are remote and wild with a breeze nearly always blowing, making them ideal for kite flying and keeping cool on a sizzling summer day (just don't forget the windbreak). And a midsummer's day in Northumberland will last a good hour longer than on the south coast.
Most beaches recommended here are easily accessible with parking right behind, some require a short stroll, and one only makes sense if you wear stout shoes. Whichever you choose, it will probably be deserted, apart from on the hottest of summer days when you will have to be content with staking your claim to just a 100 yards of personal beach.
Holy Island
For up to 11 out of every 24 hours, the sea cuts off Holy Island from the mainland, but when the tide retreats a huge area of beach bounded by dunes appears. Perched on a steep cone of rock is Lindisfarne Castle, which is open most days in the summer (for opening times, call: 01289 389244). Pay parking across the causeway.
If you want to brave the waves, avoid the north side of the island. It has fine sandy beaches but is unsafe for a dip because of strong tidal currents. Try the short drive south to Ross Back Sands. It is a 30-minute walk from the nearest parking point but follow the signs and you will be rewarded with an impressive view north to Lindisfarne and south to Bamburgh Castle and a tranquil beach safe for swimming.
A word of warning: the twice-a-day tide is king here and "safe to cross" times are displayed by the causeway (also 01289 330733 and bbc.co.uk/weather/marine/tides).
Where to stay: Middle Ord Manor, Berwick-upon-Tweed (01289 306323, middleordmanor.co.uk), £30pp per night. Secluded Georgian manor house providing all that is best in a British B&B. Many awards and you will need to book well ahead. No children. (See Bamburgh listing for children).
Where to eat and drink: The Ship Inn, Holy Island (01289 389311). Pleasant pub in a good position with bare boarded bar, maritime memorabilia and popular sheltered beer garden. Plenty of food, good for local crab and fish. Also does accommodation if you miss the safe crossing times.
Bamburgh
One of the most dramatically sited and majestic fortifications in England and, when the tide is out, one of the best beaches. The pyramidal orchid is one of many unusual species found in the rolling dunes. More than a mile of excellent beach stretches south from the castle to the coastguard lookout station offering safe swimming, unless the sea is rough. Pay parking opposite the castle and short walk through the dunes.
Where to stay: The Tankerville Arms, Wooler (01668 281581, tankervillehotel.co.uk), comfortable updated coaching inn a short drive inland from Bamburgh. Family suites from £99 in high season. Good caravan and camping park at Waren Mill (01668 214366) with heated outdoor pool, sea views and caravans for hire.
Where to eat and drink: The Copper Kettle Tearoom (01668 214515) by Bamburgh village green offers home baking. Light meals also served in castle tearoom.
Seahouses
St Aiden's Beach is just off the B1340 coast road, north of this harbour village and has a mile of gently shelving beach with safe swimming. Pay parking in the village, limited free places at the roadside. The beach has good views of the Farne Islands and boats leave the harbour for round trips at regular intervals during the summer. It is one of Britain's best seabird sanctuaries and home to puffins, cormorants, guillemots, shags and terns, as well as a large colony of grey seals. Boat trips last around two hours and are best when weather and stomachs are settled. Also boats offering longer trips for divers.
Where to stay: The Olde Ship Hotel, Seahouses (01665 720200, seahouses.co.uk), £46pp pn high season. Even the scrubbed wooden floor in the bar is made from ships' decking and the walls are festooned with genuine seafaring artifacts built up over decades of the Glen family's ownership.
Where to eat and drink: The small fishing fleet at Seahouses sets sail only for crab and lobster these days, but there is still a good selection of fish and chip restaurants. Pinnacles in Main Street has a clean seating area, but the real joy of fish-and-chips is to hurry back to the harbour and eat them by the sea.
Beadnell
You would be hard pushed to find a better family beach. Beadnell Bay has two miles of curving, dune-fringed flat sand that shelves gently, so swimming is safe and there is more than enough room for cricket and football matches, kite flying and sandcastle building. The bay is sheltered and ideal for sailing, windsurfing and kayaking. Equipment can be hired at the pay car park behind the beach, as well as a shower afterwards. This is the only harbour on the east coast that faces west, so sunsets can be spectacular.
Where to stay: Levante Cottage, Beadnell (contact: Northumbria Coast & Country Cottages, Carpenter's Court, Riverbank Road, Alnmouth NE66 2RH, tel: 01665 830783, northumbriacottages.com, weekly rates from £450 in June). Overlooks the harbour, three bedrooms, only a few yards to beach. Also North Charlton Farm, Chathill, near Alnwick (01665 579443, northcharlton.com) £30pp pn. Award-winning, farmhouse accommodation a few miles inland from Beadnell.
Where to eat and drink: Craster Arms in the village centre has an attractive beer garden and full menu.
Low Newton and Embleton Bay
This section, like much of Northumberland's coastline, seems caught in a delicious timewarp, right down to the 1930s summerhouses. The two beaches run into one another and provide nearly two miles of breathtaking scenery, topped off by romantic views of the medieval ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. With footpaths linking north to Beadnell and Seahouses, and south to the castle and the harbour village of Craster, this beach cries out to be walked at a brisk pace. At the Embleton end, it is quite steeply shelved near the high water mark, so not ideal for inexperienced swimmers. Pay parking just before Low Newton village and at Embleton Golf Club.
Where to stay: Sandpiper Cottage, Low Newton (see Northumbria Coast & Country Cottages above, weekly rates from £390 in June). Cosy 18th-century listed former fisherman's cottage set in same courtyard as Ship Inn (below) and even closer to beach.
Where to eat and drink: Ship Inn, Low Newton-by-the-Sea (01665 576262). Good spot overlooking the bay, set amid cottage courtyard protected by the National Trust and a pebble's throw from the beach. Excellent stotties (very large breadcakes) filled with local crab.
Boulmer Haven
Although this beach is safe for swimming, it is heavy on seaweed. A real delight is to wait until low tide exposes a two-mile rocky reef running parallel to the shore. It has pools and deep gullies rich in marine life, including sponges, sea firs and soft coral. Free parking behind beach.
Where to stay: The Cottage Inn, Dunstan (01665 576658) from £69 B&B per room. Very short drive inland from Craster in a quiet Northumberland village, low-beamed pub with interesting food and children welcome. Conservatory, pleasant terrace and adventure playground.
Where to eat and drink: The Jolly Fisherman, Craster (01665 576218). It is worth heading north for a few miles to Craster, a small harbour village with working fish smokehouse and this weather-beaten local that offers good local crab and fine harbour and sea views. Excellent cliff walk to Dunstanburgh Castle.
Warkworth Dunes
Excellent high dunes provide shelter for almost two miles of gently shelving sand that has little seaweed. Safe for swimming with views of the lighthouse on Coquet Island and rock pools to the north. Access is by small road north of river bridge in Warkworth, signposted "To beach". Free parking and toilets. Lovely shoreline walk north over golden sand to pretty rivermouth town of Alnmouth, but dangerous currents in River Aln estuary for swimmers.
Where to stay: The Grange, Northumberland St, Alnmouth (01665 830401), from £30pp pn. Elegant 18th-century house at end of a private drive with peaceful walled gardens overlooking estuary, sitting room and some bedrooms have panoramic river view. Also converted harbourmaster's office in grounds with fine views, weekly rate from £310 in June (same telephone number).
Where to eat and drink: Sheltered enough to provide perfect picnic spots, so it is worth getting ingredients in Warkworth. Alternatively, head a few miles inland to Cook & Barker Arms, Newton-on-the-Moor (01665 575234) which offers an imaginative menu, children welcome.
Way to go
Getting there: GNER (08457 225225, gner.co.uk) runs London King's Cross to Newcastle and Berwick-upon-Tweed. Journey times are three to four hours and fares start at around £35 return. A small number of trains also stop at Morpeth and Alnmouth. Newcastle Airport (0191-214 4444, newcastleairport.com) has 13 incoming flights per day from Heathrow, Gatwick and Stansted.
Further information: Northumberland County Council (01670 533000), Northumbria Tourist Board (0191-375 3000, visitnorthumberland.com), Berwick Tourist Information Centre: 01289 330733, Seahouses TIC: 01665 720884; Craster TIC: 01665 576007; Alnwick TIC 01665 510665.
