It is a peculiar experience, to lie in bed surrounded by the still, tropical air and pitch darkness, listening to rainforest sounds that are so clear they could almost be coming from a new-age tree-hugger CD - the insistent whirr of a cicada, the croak of a tree frog, not to mention the less soothing squeak of a bat, and one or two indeterminate rustlings that you don't even want to think about.
But when you wake, breathe in the fragrant morning air, and take in the view from your outdoor bed - the pink dawn spreading out behind the towering, twin volcanic peaks of the Piton mountains that rise for half a mile out of the Caribbean Sea - it's worth every minute of the occasionally spooky night-time chorus. It comes as no surprise to discover that this was sacred territory for the Arawaks - it's a truly awesome sight.
The resort
The two mountains, Gros Piton and Petit Piton, frame a peaceful bay in the south-westerly part of St Lucia, one of the Windward Islands of the Eastern Caribbean, and Ladera Resort - perched 300m high on the verdant hillside of rainforest that overlooks the bay - has made the most of these dramatic landmarks. The resort doesn't go in for air-conditioning. Its 24 rooms are all completely open to the elements and steep hillside on one side (so, not ideal for kids), more like tree houses than hotel rooms - and mozzies are kept at bay with a net.
Built in the 60s as a series of villas by pioneer American architect John de Pol, the resort retains its swinging 60s air - the curvy plunge pools on the terraces and exposed brick give the place a Bond-style glamour - and the breathtaking view it affords has earnt Ladera several film appearances (notably as a location in Superman 2).
It is not the most predictable of Caribbean-holiday scenes. A more usual image is of a stretch of white sandy beach and a large hotel - often of the all-inclusive variety. And certainly, in the more commercial, northern region of St Lucia, that is what you will find. St Lucian poet Derek Walcott has described the proliferation on this tiny island of large, beachfront hotels as "a succession of mini-Miamis", and he has expressed anger that local people do not feel welcome on their own beaches.
But here in the south-west, in the area surrounding the harbour town of Soufrière, "boutique", hillside hotels are a growing, and welcome, phenomenon (Stonefield Estate and Anse Chastenet are two other notable examples).
Ladera respects island culture - it is crammed with locally-made art, furniture and design, and uses all local materials - and it doesn't monopolise the island's shoreline, though guests who wish to visit the beach can catch the hotel's daily bus-ride down the hillside.
Three days into our stay, my companion and I still hadn't made it to the beach. This is the perfect spot to zone out. The odd refreshing plunge in our tiny pool and intermittent scoops of mango ice cream were enough to keep us occupied.
Within walking distance
On the afternoon of our third day, we ambled a mile or so down the road, lushly lined with avocado, breadfruit, citrus and almond trees, to visit Mount Soufrière's hotly bubbling (and odoriferous) sulphur springs and "drive-in" volcano, dormant since 1766. It's a spectacular sight, though it's easy to understand why this moonscape was known, doomily, to the Caribs as Qualibou, or Place of Death.
The nearby mineral bathing pool is said by locals to take 10 years off you. The water is hot, bubbly - and pitch black. We wallowed in it for a while, taking it in turns to enjoy the power-shower-like waterfall, and emerged 20 minutes later feeling, if not younger, then at least blissfully relaxed.
The excursions
Ten minutes away in a cab is the town of Soufrière, over which the giant Pitons loom. It was the capital under French rule - the island has a complicated history that encompasses waves of native conquests and extinctions, the arrival of the Spanish and slavery, long struggles between the French and the British for dominance, and then, finally, independence 21 years ago.
Soufrière's pastel, wooden houses, shops and rum bars, with their traditional Caribbean gingerbread fretwork, make for a picturesque scene, and the imposing Catholic church in the centre of town is particularly impressive. By the harbour, the seaside shacks are weatherbeaten, and bat tered boats bob in the water. We allow ourselves to be fleeced a little by hawkers selling engraved coconut shells fashioned into pots. To spend nothing would seem churlish.
The nightlife
A couple of days later, we venture down the hillside to the restaurant and bar owned by Colin Tennant, the English Lord Glenconner who once owned nearby Mustique. Named Bang Between The Pitons - and known in the area simply as Bang - the restaurant is just that, situated in the "cleavage", as one local described it to us, of the towering peaks. Tennant (he doesn't use the title here) has become something of an institution on the island, and, surprisingly perhaps, locals speak of the eccentric Englishman with a kind of affectionate indulgence. He used to own the entire coastal valley, much of which is now taken over by a Hilton hotel, complete with imported white sand for the beach.
Our evening at Bang, fuelled by red snapper and rum punch, was a fitting finale to a wonderful holiday. Locally renowned twin acrobats from the capital Castris are enlisted by Tennant to perform every Wednesday, and a DJ plays a blend of reggae and calypso to the assembled throng of tourists and locals.
The food may not be quite up to the impeccable cuisine at Ladera, but for sheer, unadulterated exuberance, the evening was hard to beat.
Places to eat, things to see
Restaurants
1 Dasheene, Ladera
Renowned chef Orlando Satchel created the menu, in his absence talented local Nigel Mitchell runs the show. Recommended: shrimps Dasheene, Ladera loco (chocolate rum mousse). Dinner for two including one bottle of wine, around US$100 (£60).
2 Anse Chastenet
This beachside in-hotel bar and restaurant serves delicious West Indian dishes, weekly barbecue buffet recommended. Beautiful setting. Reachable by car or water-taxi. Dinner around US$90.
3 Bang Between The Pitons
Colin Tennant's easy-going restaurant is an island institution. Wednesday nights feature acrobatics, fire-eating, live music and cocktails. A mixed crowd of locals and tourists. Dinner, around US$80.
4 The Hummingbird
French creole cuisine in a garden setting by the sea. Recommended: marinated stuffed dorado. Daily happy hours and special cocktails. Live creole music some evenings. Favourite with locals and yachties. Dinner around US$60.
5 Camilla's restaurant and cocktail bar
In the town of Soufrière, this small, authentic eaterie offers tasty, home-style St Lucian cooking. A favourite with locals. Specialities: national dish of green fig and saltfish. Dinner around US$30.
Tours
1 Botanical Gardens tour
Three-hours, taking in the sulphur springs, waterfall and lush grounds of the Diamond Botanical Gardens. Dozens of labelled tropical species, plus Japanese garden. About 3 hours. Price: US$12 for transport and guide laid on by the hotel, plus $7 entrance fee.
2 Rainforest tour
Four hours around the island's lushest areas of rainforest. If you're lucky, you may spot the national parrot. US$30pp for guide and transport.
3 Horseback tours
One hour around Soufrière Estate, a former 18th-century sugar plantation. Also goes to a sulphur spring in the hills, US$30pp; half-day trip to Malgretoute Beach, US$50; full-day trek, including picnic lunch, US$70.
4 Scuba diving tours
Can be arranged through Anse Chastenet or Hilton hotels.
5 Sailing tours
Four-hour sunset cruise, with captain on board, in a 30ft yacht around Soufrière and the Pitons. US$35pp.
Cocktail of the week
Piton surprise
• 1 measure of lime or lemon juice
• 2 measures syrup (dissolve 1lb white sugar in a pint of water or similar proportions)
• 3 measures rum (golden, pref Bounty St Lucian rum)
• 4 measures mixed fruit juices (pineapple and orange in equal quantities)
• A good sprinkling of Angostura Bitters
Serve with plenty of ice, and a sprinkle of grated nutmeg.
