Uruguay is the second smallest country in South America, perched between Argentina and Brazil. It boasts a stretch of Atlantic coastline and extends westwards up the river Plate to Fray Bentos, a town that is famous for its corned beef.

In a population of 3.3 million, 40% live in the capital, Montevideo. The city was founded in 1726 and dominates both commerce and culture in Uruguay, but there are beach resorts along the coast and beautiful rolling hills further inland.

Artigas, leader of the Banda Oriental, struggled for independence from Argentina and succeeded in 1825, but civil strife continued until the early 20th century. Originally established as a buffer state, Uruguay is deeply dependent on its trading partners Brazil and Argentina. It has been seriously affected by their economic crises, particularly that of 2002 which reduced Argentinian tourism severely.

To the east of Montevideo is the "Ibiza of Latin America". Punta del Este does not quite live up to its sobriquet: it's a collection of apartment blocks where Argentinians come to buy their Gucci. Still, browsing is fun if you dare brave the shop assistants and there's sure to be a beach party you can join if you fancy dancing 'til dawn.

Uruguay is home to artists of all kinds, such as Picasso's disciple Carlos Vilera. Visit Casa Pueblo, his home and workshop, and admire its bizarre confection of minarets.

Language

Spanish is the official language, but quite a few people speak English.

Climate

Uruguay has an exceptionally fine temperate climate, with mild summers and winters. Summer is from December to March and is the most pleasant time, with the average temperatures around 25C (76F); the climate during other seasons offers bright, sunny days and cool nights. Winter lasts from June to September and when the wind blows from the south, cold weather with night temperatures occasionally dropping to freezing point can be expected.

Health

There is a slight risk of typhoid fever. Tap water is considered safe to drink, but water outside main cities and towns may be contaminated. Uruguay has an excellent medical service but travel health insurance is recommended, as emergency medical help can be very expensive.

Food

Uruguay is the place for meat. You will find plenty of parilladas which sell a mixed grill including everything from steak to tripe; the good versions are delicious, the bad are unspeakable. Morcilla is a form of blood sausage that melts in the mouth. Have media lunas - a form of croissant - and the ubiquitous fresh orange juice for breakfast and join the grannies and children for ice cream at midnight.

Events

Carnival is officially the Monday and Tuesday preceding Ash Wednesday but some firms close for the whole week. Expect parties but nothing on the scale of Brazilian celebrations.
La Semana Criolla, which occurs during holy week, involves horse-breaking, stunt-riding and general festivities.
August 25 is Independence Day.

What to buy

Flip flops and bikinis are cheap and colourful. Suede and leather items can be a good buy, but the feria artesanal (handicraft markets) aren't really worth it.

Embassies and visas

UK: Embassy of Uruguay in Great Britain, 2nd floor, 140 Brompton Road, London SW3 1HY
Tel: (00 44 207) 589 88 35
Email: emb@urubri.demon.co.uk

Uruguay: British Embassy in Uruguay, Marco Bruto 1073, 11300 Montevideo, Republica Oriental del Uruguay
Tel : (+ 598 2) 622 3630
Fax: (+ 598 2) 622 7815

Visa requirements: Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay citizens only need the identity card. Holders of regular passports (non-diplomatic), do not require a visa for temporary stays up to three months. Canadian and Venezuelan passportsrequire a visa.

A tourist card will be issued to you when you enter the country (usually it is given to passengers on the plane), and you must keep it until you leave.

Currency

£1 buys approximately 45 Uruguayan pesos.

Most banks will change American dollars and travellers' cheques and most credit cards are accepted in major cities. British cash cards may not be accepted at several ATMs.

Timezone

GMT -3

Getting there

Pluna does direct flights from Madrid via Rio de Janeiro. Using any other airline necessitates a change at Rio, Sao Paulo or Buenos Aires. Ferry services run from Buenos Aires across the river Plate. Uruguay can also be reached by land or boat from neighbouring Paraguay and Brazil.

Related literature

Piano Stories, Felisberto Hernandez
Precursor of the magical realism movement.

The City of Your Final Destination, Peter Cameron
A biographer travels to the mansion of a celebrated but obscure writer in Uruguay and encounters an uneasy world. "A 21st century Henry James".

A Brief Life, Juan Carlos Onetti
An advertising copywriter seeks release both from himself and the physical world that torments him.