• I travelled around Iran for two weeks in August 1999 with a male companion, and only once had problems with a hotel. We were asked to leave one hotel when they saw we had different arrivals dates into the country on our passports (my travel companion had come from Australia and we'd only met up once we were in Tehran). I managed to convince them we were married and they relented but as soon as we went to pay individually for the room they realised we weren't married at all. After that, they wouldn't even rent us separate rooms because they were afraid of the reaction of the religious police and they apologetically asked us to leave. We simply went to another hotel nearby (where the police did come and take down our passport details after we'd checked in). We travelled constantly for two weeks, staying in many different hotels and only had this experience once, so you are unlikely to have problems.
After the above experience, we changed tactics when booking into hotels: in order to be a more convincing "couple", Anthony, my travel companion, would always pay for the room himself and then we'd settle up afterwards, out of sight of the hotel management. It's far more convincing than both going into your money belts and paying half each.
As far as covering up goes, the previous reply is incorrect: you are definitely not required to wear a burka. You are required to cover up well and I would recommend getting one of the long black coats Iranian women wear, and you need a headscarf too. I found this perfectly comfortable and I'm sure it was less hot than trying to adapt Western clothes as I just wore shorts and a little top underneath. Iranian women are compelled to dress this way every time they go out of the house, I felt it was only respectful to them that I do the same. Several times I was thanked or complimented by people in the street for observing proper "hejab" (modest dress).
Iran was a fantastic country, the mosques are stunning and the people are without doubt the most hospitable I've ever come across. I have kept in touch with several Iranians I met and while I was there and I can't wait to go back again later this year and travel on my own.
Candi Bain
• I travelled through Iran with my girlfriend (and two kids) in late 1998 on the way to India and Pakistan, and then back again in mid 1999. We had no problems at hotels at all regarding our non-married status, although we had heard the same rumours as you. We met several other westerners travelling with girfriends and boyfriends (and platonic friends), and none reported problems on these grounds. We also met two pairs of girls travelling together - they did attract some attention, but had no real problems (Pakistan can be a different story for women).
Visas were problematic, and took a lot of time. The easiest thing to do is get a five day transit visa, but we went for a 14 day tourist visa; it took about six or eight weeks from the London embassy. They were pretty liberal, and had no problem with us travelling as an unmarried couple, although the presence of the kids may have helped. If other people suggest this is a problem, you could apply separately. Once we got to Iran we had no problem extending the visa for a further 14 days (Shiraz is a good place to do this). If you want to do that, it's worth talking to other tourists that you meet there for the latest info. In the UK, good up to date advice is available from the overland truck companies, eg Exodus and Dragonman, although you may need to pretend that you are interested in one of their trips. Alternatively, one of the specialist tour operators that take trips to Iran should be able to offer good advice. Far more difficult getting a return visa from Pakistan - again, it took seven weeks, and several people we met were turned down (disastrous if you are driving as there is no other feasible land route).
Finally, enjoy it - we though Iran was a fascinating place. Difficult enough not to be overrun by tourists, very friendly people, lots of interesting stuff to see etc. You will need to cover your head with a scarf and wear very baggy clothing (a coat), or an Iranian chador. In summer it can get pretty warm in all that stuff. Your male friend will have it a lot easier, although no shorts etc.
Hope this helps,
Nigel Muir
• From what I have heard, via a friend who goes there on business, being an unmarried couple would be problematical and furthermore, as a women you would be compelled to wear a burka.
Ann Eastman
