Why: It is a crumbling old port about an hour's drive south of Casablanca, and no one ever goes there for the simple reason that there is no particular reason to go there.

It is one of those old walled Moroccan cities, and in the 16th century it was an important port, built by the Portuguese. The reason I first went to Azzemour was that a fairly eccentric relative of mine used to live there, in the former palace of the Pasha. So I went to see him.

The relative in question went to Morocco during the war, fell in love with the country, moved back when peace was declared and got married. He spent all his time, effort and money on restoring this palace to what it would have looked like in the 16th century.

It is a stunningly beautiful place with a central atrium and a Portuguese fountain. Moroccan tiles have been laid on the floor, there are stained-glass windows, a roof terrace that affords views over the estuary, and even a tomb to a holy man.

I first visited Azzemour during my gap year, and then returned a few times. When I got married, my wife and I went there on our honeymoon, but I haven't been back since my relative died.

What's the best thing: I love the Portuguese influence, which you can see in the towns on the Moroccan west coast. They still have their walls and the fortifications. But they are crumbling, which adds to their attraction. They are different from Casablanca - quite a modern town, which I would avoid.

My advice: Go along the Atlantic coast and see the Portuguese influence. If you want a more easy-going trip, choose the Berber south over the Arabic north.

How do I get there? GB Airways flies from Gatwick to Casablanca for £340 plus taxes in August. Check for special offers on 0845 7733377.

• Big Chief Elizabeth, by Giles Milton is published by Hodder and Stoughton at £14.99.